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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Pegg
Page Views: 1,253 total, 18/month
Shared By: D-Storm on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This could become a decent warmup for other routes in the cave.

Tiptoe up through about 12 feet of choss to the first bolt. The climbing only gets better from here. Fun 5.11ish climbing on sharp jugs gets you pumped and leads to a decent rest on a big sidepull/undercling where an uncomfortable kneebar can be had. From there, launch into a devious sequence of slippery sidepulls and sloping rails with bad feet to establish on the slab. By now, you're on some of Rifle's best rock — the bullet gray stone with shallow pockets and incut edges. The hardest moves are over but the pump stays with you to the end as you make long reaches from sidepulls and back-steps.

Since this route is at the bottom of a huge slab, it is prone to get dirtier than others after rain and whatnot. Be ready for the slopers to feel desperate! Nonetheless, the climb is a good mix of steep jugs and technical slab.

Location

It's the first route you see, slightly to right as the trail enters the main cave. "Shades" is the next route to the left.

Protection

It's around 9 bolts to the anchor, which has chains with biners.

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