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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Bad Girls Club S 5.14c/d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7b
Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Hippy Speedball S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: BC Haney
Page Views: 340 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Byrnes on Oct 3, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a poor, 4-pitch route that is better done in three.

Get on top of "Entrance Exam" (12a) (See F.U.C.K.) by either climbing the most disgusting rock I've ever ascended, or stick-clipping your way up (which I did).

Link the 10a pitch and 5.7 pitch and belay at the two bolt anchor atop the sketchy pillar. Bring some runners to replace the aging tat when you rappel.

Whimper your way upward on friable Goutte d'Eau features, which will snap off in your fingers and break under your feet. At least there's a calming number of bolts (10?).

The anchors are hard to see, on the slab slightly left of the climbing line and directly above a very loose bucket-sized block. Do not lower directly off this anchor if you value your rope.

Extend the anchor with long slings and you can lower to the pillar. Have your second thread the anchor and rappel back to the pillar.

You can lower your partner and then rap (70m rope) to the ground if you only have one ATC.

The final indignity is that the free-hanging rappel ends in a cluster of bushes that have burrs and stickers which end up everywhere, like in your chalk bag the next day.

Location

It is identified as "The Playground Wall" in the guide. Find the line of bolts about 50 feet right of Sexy Beast.

Protection

For Entrance Exam: bring safety goggles and dust mask for both climbers and a helmet for the belayer.

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