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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Kurt Smith
Page Views: 363 total, 14/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Oct 8, 2015
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This 1/2 route variation to "Get Shorty" makes for a worthy 13a if you're looking for big pulls on relatively good holds through steep rock.

Start off with a short boulder problem to easier climbing through good holds and marginal rock for a few bolts. Continue up with big pulls between good holds with ever increasing difficulty to the crux. Pull a few powerful moves, and reach jugs to clip the anchor. If you want 13b credit, continue up through cobwebs and some blocks that look like they are held on by cobwebs to finish below the roof, without any anchors.

This would probably deserve 3 stars if the rock were a bit better, a bit less damp, a bit more natural, and a bit less glue. However, despite all that, the climbing is quite fun.

Location

This climbs the first half of "Get Shorty". There is a red-tagged project to the left and "Planet X" is to the right.

Protection

Bolts to the 1st set of anchors, which generally has fixed draws.

Photos

James Cranston
Boulder, CO
 
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
 
Short, bouldery, power endurance. A variety of options for the crux sequence but none of them easy. Sep 21, 2017