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Routes in The Wicked Cave

Cryptic Egyptian S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Deity S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
F.U.C.K. S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Feast (aka Fat Lady), The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Get Shorty S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Magnetar S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Planet X S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Quick Tick Egyptian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sexy Beast S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shades S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Skyline Fire Dance S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slice of Life S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Tombraider S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
Zulu S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 1,588 total, 21/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Aug 30, 2011
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

The Planet X hypothesis claimed that the gravity of a large, unseen ninth planet caused irregularities in the orbits of Uranus and Neptune. After this theory was disproved, the term become a stand-in for any undiscovered planet in the outer Solar System.

Like astronomers sensed Planet X, climbers have always perceived that the left side of the Wicked Cave held something special. However, it took over 20 years to discover the potential beneath the choss, and silt.

Similar to Zulu, Planet X is a pure endurance pitch. Follow fairly good holds peppered with brief cruxes to a jug at 40 feet. Move right into the technical crux, make a hard clip, and then lunge for a good resting hold (look for a left kneebar). Working the kneebar, traverse directly left to another jug, and then move into a long boulder problem on decent, but very pumpy pockets, and sidepulls to a delicate move under the roof. A very shouldery sequence cuts right under the roof to some large pockets and a rest below the last crux. Reach over the roof to a horrible crimp, work your feet up, and lunge to an undercling flake. Stand up and clip the chains!

Despite the glue and creative cleaning, this route is amazing. With time, Planet X will probably become classic.

Location

This is to the right of Diety/Get Shorty.

Protection

Lots of quickdraws. Two kneepads. The left is most critical. Two bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

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Jug at 40 feet is gone. Steven Hong, make us a new jug.... Jul 24, 2013