Type: Sport
FA: Matt Samet
Page Views: 2,142 total · 10/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 19, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This is two routes right of The Anti-Phil and climbs up a faint dihedral to a nice, colorful face and a finishing arete. Varied terrain and mulitple cruxes make for a memorable experience, as does the finishing sequence up the arete, one of the only bolted aretes at Rifle.

Either boulder up (5.10+) or stick clip the first bolt. Climb the corner to the base of the small roof band, then engage with the 2-3 bolt face above (easier if you go left and grab the footholds on Poetic Justice). A good shake gives way to a dynamic sequence on cryptic holds that lands you at the base of the arete. Paw your way elegantly to the anchor.

The name derives from the locals' displeasure with a route-stealing Frenchman who on-sighted his way up The Anti-Phil while it still had a red tag on it.

Protection

12 quickdraws.

Photos

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Bart Paull
Golden, CO
  5.13b
Bart Paull   Golden, CO
  5.13b
This is an awesome route! Aug 29, 2010