Type: Sport
FA: Phillip Benningfield
Page Views: 205 total · 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Jun 4, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This is a somewhat squeezed route one route right of Easy Skankin' in perhaps the most gridded out sector of the anti-Phil Wall. Nevertheless, it's long, pumpy and fun, with some very cool pocket climbing on the upper headwall.

Start as for I'm Not Worthy (13a) but continue straight up into funky, triangular corners. As the angle increases so does the difficulty, culminating in a cruxy roof. Turn the roof, rest and punch it up the black headwall, staying slightly left of the bolts on crimps (the original line stayed right on brushed-off sidepulls at 13a but is contrived). You'll be sharing a few holds with Easy Skankin' at one point -- that's just how it goes!

The start is basically the lowest start off the ramp on nice black and tan stone. A popular 12d link up is the first 4-5 bolts of Philosophy into the top of Philistine. Ask a local for beta.

Protection

14 draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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D-Storm
  5.13a
D-Storm  
  5.13a
It's definitely squeezed in close to Easy Skankin', but the rock is really good. There is an element of creating your own personal challenge – reach left for the huge double jug on Skankin' in the middle of the otherwise sustained redpoint crux, or stay true? I enjoyed the tenuous, run-out sequence at the end too much to blight it by going over to the sidelines for a breather, but either way, the climbing is some of the best rock in Rifle. Nov 11, 2013