Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: John Scott
Page Views: 123 total · 1/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on May 31, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Almost completely forgotten, this route starts about 25 feet up the ramp, on the left side of the Anti-Phil Wall.

Slide through a traverse down low, continue up easier terrain until you reach a large shelf, and pull through pockets to gain the anchors (see note below).

The move are fun, and the rock is solid. Unfortunately, a fine layer of sand covers the entire route. So, if you start up this one, bring a toothbrush, and make sure your belayer has some protective goggles.

NOTE: As of 6/1/03 the anchor was composed of a drop through and a hanger without a chain. So, unless you are comfortable lowering off just the drop through, bring a carabiner for the hanger.

Protection

10-12 draws, a toothbrush.

Photos

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Jeremy H
  5.12c
Jeremy H  
  5.12c
This route is actually pretty fun. It is also one of the easiest 12c routes in the canyon. The bouldery traverse near the bottom is the crux and can be a little cryptic because of the lack of chalk. Then you move up through easier terrain to a no hands rest. After the no-hands, you have a easier crux then the chains. May 2, 2010
D-Storm
  5.12c PG13
D-Storm  
  5.12c PG13
Are you trad and bad? Then this sport route is for you! If you enjoy runouts above rusty quarter-inchers, slippery underclings, monos, dyons, and finger locks, you will enjoy the aptly named "Serpentine." I cursed as all hell the first two tries, scared for my ankles. I swore it was a pile if there ever was one, but I can't stop spraying about it now. It's so good in fact, that it's two stars now that I've done it and you, most likely, have not. I was oh-so tempted to give this one 12d, after getting worked on the onsight attempt, but let's face it, 12c is pretty hard when it's moderately spooky. This one is probably harder than "Movement of Fear" to its right but also no harder than "I am not a Philistine," which is a hard 12c if there ever was one (grades are all over the place on the Anti-Phil). As for the underground classic status, well, just look at all the words I've devoted to it here... "Serpentine" – a right of passage for the climber who is confident onsighting 5.12. Get Sum! (Then maybe this thing will clean up and become easier.)

P.S.: I added another carabiner to the bolt next to the open-shut at the top, so now the rope runs clean through both anchors. Oct 6, 2014