Type: Sport
FA: Kurt Smith
Page Views: 3,543 total · 17/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Sep 22, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

This is a long and stellar pitch with two distinct 5.12 cruxes separated by scads of awesome, varied climbing on the unique pocketed limestone of the anti-Phil wall. It climbs through some of the best stone on the wall in a great position. It was bolted, cleaned and sent in a proud one-day effort by Kurt Smith.

This is one route left of Easy Skankin' and shares the same first bolt. It is the second route from the left on the anti-Phil proper and climbs up a tan face through a big roof, then up the grey streak above.

Step off the ramp and climb a devious, sustained sequence up to good holds beneath the roof. Meander your way up the ever-steepening wall above to some very cruxy business at the last two bolts, right where the stone is at its limestone best.

Protection

14 draws and a 60-meter rope.

Photos

Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
This is a stellar route with big air potential when you blow it at the crux. Watch for sharp draws... I would usually replace the crux draw with one of my own when I was working the route 'cause I'm a weenie who doesn't want to die.

And I kept my draws because I'm a cheap bastahd. Oct 3, 2013
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12c
Wow, incredible climb. Beautiful, intricate movement on the upper head wall with some airy bolt spacing! I found a right knee scum to be very helpful on the final crux - no pad necessary.

I think the name of the route comes from the fear you feel that the rusted, spinning cold shut at the crux will move out of the rock if you whip. Oct 28, 2018