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Routes in Anti-Phil Wall

Anti-Phil, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Atlas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue and Black S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bong 30 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dancing Pickle, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Def Jam S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Don't Call Me Phil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Easy Skankin' S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Euro Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Eurotrash S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fullphilment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girly, not Burly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Cornholio, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I Am Not A Philistine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Incisor S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just Another 5.14 (aka "Courtesy Spit") S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kill Phil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Land Phil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Movement of Fear S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Night Vision S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phil It S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phil of All Evil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phil-attio (The Stumblebum) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Philanthropy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Philch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Philibuster S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Philistine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Philology S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Philosophy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Philthy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poetic Justice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Purple and Green S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quasimodo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride The Snake S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S.C.U.M. Mainfesto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Serpentine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sing It In Russian S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,906 total, 11/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Apr 26, 2003
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a link-up that combines the best of two routes -- Eurotrash and Poetic Justice -- for a tour of some of the best stone at Rifle.

Climb Eurotrash all the way up and through the arete, clipping the second bolt on the arete. Take an incut, inset face hold left of the arete, and move left into the crux finishing bulge on Poetic Justice.

Either clip up into the first bolt on the Poetic Justice bulge, and return to unclip the last bolt on Eurotrash (for rope drag), or just punch it into the bulge having clipped only the bolt on Eurotrash (not a great idea, as it will be down and to the side of you should you fall gunning for the last bolt on Poetic).

Long slings on these last couple of bolts would save any sort of maneuvering around, and simplify things.

Protection

10-12 quickdraws

Photos

- No Photos -
Many thanks to Mr. Samet for posting this route. After two weeks of travel to climb the fine desert sandstone, we returned to Boulder by coming first to Rifle. Jan has told me that many people who read the climbing web site feel that I showed too much ego in my writing, so here I will only say that the Euro Justice is a very fine and difficult combination of two separate climbs. It is a good to use long runners on Euro Justice before switching into the steep section on the left of the arete. This important information was already described. There are many other good climbs near Euro Justice and they also require much power and can give you a chance to climb on very similar routes. For my experience, this is the best climbing I have done in USA. But I think you would not find routes that are better climbing in Europe, it is only that training on pockets is not good preparation for climbing in Rifle! May 21, 2003