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Routes in Anti-Phil Wall

Anti-Phil, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Atlas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blue and Black S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bong 30 S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dancing Pickle, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Def Jam S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Don't Call Me Phil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Easy Skankin' S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Euro Justice S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Eurotrash S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fullphilment S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Girly, not Burly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Great Cornholio, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I Am Not A Philistine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Incisor S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just Another 5.14 (aka "Courtesy Spit") S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Kill Phil S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Land Phil S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Movement of Fear S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Night Vision S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phil It S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phil of All Evil S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Phil-attio (The Stumblebum) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Philanthropy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Philch S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Philibuster S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Philistine S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Philology S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Philosophy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Philthy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Poetic Justice S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Purple and Green S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quasimodo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride The Snake S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
S.C.U.M. Mainfesto S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Serpentine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sing It In Russian S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport
FA: Eric Candee, Eric Fedor
Page Views: 2,623 total · 13/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Aug 6, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I think this is a great route, and certainly one of the toughest for the grade at Rifle. Perhaps its only defect is that every clip seems to be a long stretch away, making it much easier to do the route once the draws are on (use long ones at that!).

Boulder up into an acute corner and clip a bolt, then move right to establish yourself on the face over the roof. Continuously crimpy moves define the next 30+ feet of climbing, which is capped by a powerful stretch right into the base of another dihedral. Move left at the top of the dihedral to finish.

This route has grey cold shuts on it. Now, what the hell is a "Philibuster?"

Location

This climbs the very colorful blue/black/grey streaked wall right of Eurotrash, of which it is basically a slightly easier version.

Protection

10-12 quickdraws.

Photos

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Neal Carroll  
 
This thing is 13a all day long...and a 4 star route! Sep 21, 2004
One of the very best. Pumpy and sustained, with hardly a shake between the 2nd and 6th bolts. I personally think that In Your Face is a harder 12d to redpoint, though. If you're comparing the grade to other areas, however, this would go as 13b in a certain local climbing area with cream puff ratings that I will not name. Oct 17, 2005
Bart Paull
Golden, CO
  5.13a
Bart Paull   Golden, CO
  5.13a
This one is kind of atypical for Rifle, sustained crimps with no rest for a few bolts. It feels harder than Eurotrash. Aug 29, 2010
heppnerd
  5.12d
heppnerd  
  5.12d
I think this is harder than Eurotrash as well. May 30, 2011
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
I feel this route is much harder than the 12d "laugh fest for grade" that it is given. I understand if you project this route for years and never climb on anything but Rifle, this may feel 12d! But what are we grading routes on in Rifle? Because a lot of the grades seem like they are graded on sending routes and re-doing them a hundred times. Then putting a grade on it for whatever it is! I think this is more like 13a/b! Feb 4, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
By "laugh fest", I do not mean that the route is bad! This route is so amazing. Definitely 4 stars! But I feel that Rifle should just make their own grading system! It's not that this route is crazy crazy hard, considering the rest at midway and the multiple knee bar rests and clips! But if this were an average of the entire country, I think this would easily easily go in the "solid 13a" range. I've climbed in multiple places around the country, as you can see by the favorite places I have marked off on Mountain Project! I love Rifle, but I think that there is a huge ego-thing going on in Rifle, where we stiffen the grades as much as possible, kinda like in Horsepen 40 in Alabama! I just want more of a uniformed grade around the country! :) Feb 4, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.13b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.13b
And I agree that some places around the country, "Boulder Canyon", can stiffen their grades quite a bit! I have been on multiple 12a's that have felt like 11c or below! I have graded them lower on "MP" to try to get it lower in the next guidebook! Thank you for hearing me out and if you have comments, I would appreciate feedback! :) Feb 4, 2014
Warrior
Rock City, GA
Warrior   Rock City, GA
"Now, what the hell is a "Philibuster?" From my recollection a bad groundfall was taken by "Phil" when he was GU bolting. To save some dough many of the early ascentionists at Rifle were using some pretty dicey coffin nails in between "real" bolts and evidently one busted, leading to a busted up Phil. Dec 18, 2017

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