Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Meat Wall

80 Feet of Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blocky Horror Picture Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulges of Munge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardinal Sin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Cuts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crime and Punishment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Czech Mate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Johnson S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drunk Lover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gun Show S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jail Bait S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
James Brown's Wild Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Superlune (aka Polish Sausage) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Le Specimen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lost and Found S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Try S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steroid Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Herman Gollner
Page Views: 2,717 total, 14/month
Shared By: Nate Weitzel on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


86 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a new route that went in last season. It climbs the face directly right of 80 feet of Meat, and takes on the overhang up above. Climb the interesting face, up to a dihedral rest. From there, go on to climb the overhang through some difficult climbing to a final toss to a jug. The route is largely clean, but it is newer than others on the wall so watch out for loose stuff. Overall, a great route that tests you at the end.

Protection

14 bolts to lowering rings.

Photos

- No Photos -
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
I thought this thing was super fun. Took a bunch of giant whippers off the overhang up top. I've heard some skip the second to last bolt by staying left and gunning for the chains. Jul 6, 2015
Mort
  5.12a
Mort  
  5.12a
I'd say the extension has cleaned up pretty nicely. I found all the clips easy once I got to them. Probably 11d, but a friend of mine who climbs considerably harder than I do called it 12a. Need an 80m rope or lower twice. Oct 1, 2012
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Havent done the extension but to the first anchor is one of the best enduro 12a's in the canyon. The rock has totally cleaned and provides thoughtful pumpy climbing all the way with a few classic Rifle rests to make it reasonable. Jun 15, 2009
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I agree the extension is in an awesome position; but aside from that, I can think of little to recommend it. Chossy rock, awkward groveling, hard to reach clips. I would do C&P again, but I would definitely skip the extension. Also, I wouldn't hang your hat on the 11b grade suggested by SplitterChoss. Jun 30, 2008
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
FA: HERMAN GOLLNER (According to the 2002 edition of Western Sloper by Dave Pegg. There is a picture of Herman on page 23 and the route description tells the story behind the route name.)

This route has its own warm-up. Begin with 5.9 past the first three or four bolts to a rest ledge. Then 5.11 up to a no-hands stem/rest under the roof. The warm-up ends with the 5.12a overhang. Nov 20, 2007