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Routes in Meat Wall

80 Feet of Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blocky Horror Picture Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulges of Munge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardinal Sin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Cuts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crime and Punishment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Czech Mate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Johnson S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drunk Lover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gun Show S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jail Bait S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
James Brown's Wild Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Superlune (aka Polish Sausage) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Le Specimen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lost and Found S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Try S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steroid Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Rob Floyd, 1995
Page Views: 3,399 total, 18/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 21, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

James Brown is the left of two parallel lines 50 feet or so right 80 feet of Meat. This is another fine line on largely good stone; however, like may routes on this wall, the rock can kick up suspicious chunks that are are a bit off-putting on the sharp end (Personally, I also thought it was spacey getting to the first clip - others may disagree). Lots of crimping on a nearly dead vertical wall with very high continuity generates a largely excellent line. James Brown also gets a bit spacey in the middle, the difficulty does back down here for a short way, however, compared to Sex Machine, James seemed to demand more mind control - pretty cool until the pump starts to set in.

Location

James Brown is the left of two parallel lines 50 feet or so right 80 feet of Meat.

Protection

Eight to ten (Eds. now 11) draws and a rope.

Per Jeremy H: it was re-bolted, but they found that a couple of the original bolts were in hollow rock. They had to make a choice to make the run outs way longer or to add more bolts. We are only allowed to climb in the canyon because the town of Rifle allows it. If someone got hurt because it was re-bolted in a dangerous way, it could jeopardize climbing in the canyon for everyone.

Photos

D-Storm
  5.12a
D-Storm  
  5.12a
There is still one notable runout about halfway up, in the open corner, where there is a committing move before you can clip the next bolt, and a fall could deposit you on the slab 20 feet below—take your time there and find the right foothold, which is hard to see, as it is obscured by a bulge.... Sep 11, 2017
drewhouser
  5.12a
drewhouser  
  5.12a
Very high quality movement on fantastic stone makes for a great route...get on it or miss out. Sep 8, 2015
Tom T  
Thanks for the info, Jeremy. Makes sense. Nov 29, 2013
Jeremy H  
 
It was re-bolted a few years ago. Unfortunately when they went to put the bolts in the same location, they found that a couple of the original bolts were placed in hollow rock. They had no choice but to move them to more solid rock. Because of this, they had to make a choice to make the run outs way longer or to add a couple bolts. The longer run outs could have been dangerous, so they added the extra bolts. We are only allowed to climb in the canyon because the town of Rifle allows it. If someone got hurt because it was re-bolted in a dangerous way, it could jeopardize climbing in the canyon for everyone. Apr 21, 2013
Tom T  
Anyone know who changed this route and why? My apologies in advance if it was the FA that put in the extra bolts or if there is a good reason I don't know about. But....

This climb was memorable, safe, and exciting before. I haven't done tons of routes at Rifle. However, this one in particular was unique and one I've always remembered because I had to try desperately hard with some air underneath. In fact, the only reason I went to this description was to get a little palm sweat going at work.

It reminds me of a time when I was little. My mom took me to this park that had an ammmmmaazing slide. We got there and learned that the awesome slide had been replaced with a short, lawyer-approved, sissy slide. I still remember the disappointment. That's how this feels. Apr 18, 2013
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This route was rebolted with glue-ins in the past few years so it no longer has the runouts and now has 11 bolts. Sep 4, 2011
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.11d
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.11d
I really enjoyed this route: very technical, with continuous and engaging movement. Not at all runout anymore, 10-11 bolts to chains. I agree it's closer to 11d than 12a. Jul 25, 2011
PTZ
Chicago/Colorado
PTZ   Chicago/Colorado
I consider it like Rumor has its big brother. A bit harder with a little more finesse. Great thinker's route. You will not have to line up for a ride on this one. Jan 31, 2011
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11d
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11d
This is a fantastic route. When climbers are tripping over each other to warm up on Cold Cuts and 80 Feet of Meat, this route will likely be free. Sure, it's not a great warmup because it's pretty thin, but it gives you a chance to climb a beautiful, long line up a relatively untraveled part of the canyon. Feb 23, 2007
Have to agree with mp, feels more like hard eleven. Sep 1, 2003
In case anyone cares, it's more like hard-ish 11 than 12a. So don't let a silly # dissuade you or persuade you. Mostly, you just have to keep your wits about you, a ways above your previous bolt...the moves themselves aren't too hard, but _are_ fun. Still has chains (no biners) at the top. Aug 31, 2003