Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Chad Thomson
Page Views: 912 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chad Thomson on Jun 22, 2014
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route is on great stone with fun pocket pulling to get you warmed up through the first four bolts or so, where you reach a small ledge and the real climbing begins. Sustained, steepening rock culminates in a nice pump as you jog up some fun crimps, pinches, and sidepulls (don't dally in any one spot too long). The climbing up to a big jug rest below the looming roof is about 11d/12a. Now for the climax - an atypical boulder problem for Rifle: a slab, and an exciting one at that. Spot the footholds before you commit to the harrowing traverse up along the arete, and save some skin for the thin, sharp crimps getting to the anchor.

If you're boned up on your slab climbing, 12b might seem a little generous. If you've only been pumping laps in the Arsenal lately, the grade might seem sandbag as you struggle to pull yourself up on little nothings.

Location

This is to the right of Crime and Punishment.

Protection

Bring 14 or 15 draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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D-Storm
  5.12b
D-Storm  
  5.12b
Since it doesn't look like the author's description is coming any time soon, I'll chip in. This route is on great stone with fun pocket pulling to get you warmed up through the first four bolts or so, where you reach a small ledge and the real climbing begins. Sustained, steepening rock culminates in a nice pump as you jog up some fun crimps, pinches, and sidepulls (don't dally in any one spot too long). The climbing up to a big jug rest below the looming roof is about 11d/12a. Now for the climax - an atypical boulder problem for Rifle: a slab, and an exciting one at that. Spot the footholds before you commit to the harrowing traverse up along the arete, and save some skin for the thin, sharp crimps getting to the anchor. If you're boned up on your slab climbing, 12b might seem a little generous. If you've only been pumping laps in the Arsenal lately, the grade might seem sandbag as you struggle to pull yourself up on little nothings. Thanks for a great addition, Chad! A 60-meter rope gets you down. A 50m might work, too. 12 draws or so to the chains. Jun 29, 2014
Chad Thomson
  5.12c
Chad Thomson  
  5.12c
Hey D-Storm, thanks for getting this going for me! I could not have described the route better. Jul 8, 2014