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Routes in Meat Wall

80 Feet of Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blocky Horror Picture Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulges of Munge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardinal Sin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Cuts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crime and Punishment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Czech Mate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Johnson S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drunk Lover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gun Show S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jail Bait S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
James Brown's Wild Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Superlune (aka Polish Sausage) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Le Specimen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lost and Found S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Try S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steroid Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Marty Alfred
Page Views: 117 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on May 22, 2002
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the route up the bulging tan/brown stone just left of the uber-popular 80 Feet of Meat. It is also one route right of Le Specimen.

Dirt isn't called Dirt for nothing -- low traffic and a wide brown streak which runs straight down the route ensure that most years (unless someone's been up there first to brush it), the route will have pretty sandy grips. Nevertheless, it's a pretty fun climb on good stone and could clean up well with some travel.

Pull through an awkward bulge on pockets and stand up on the vertical face. Easier climbing leads to the crux bulge, which has two fairly strenuous sequences back to back before you reach bigger holds and gently overhanging terrain. Pumpy climbing on good incuts and pinches leads to anchors on a ledge (the same ledge where Le Specimen finishes).

Protection

8-10 quickdraws.

Photos

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