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The Blocky Lost Johnson
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Meat Wall
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80 Feet of Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Blocky Horror Picture Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Blocky Lost Johnson, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bulges of Munge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cardinal Sin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Carnivore S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cold Cuts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Crime and Punishment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crime and Punishment for Life S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Czech Mate S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dirt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dirty Johnson S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Drunk Lover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Gun Show S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Jail Bait S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jail Bait - Right Finish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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James Brown's Wild Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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La Superlune (aka Polish Sausage) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Le Specimen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lost and Found S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Next Try S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sex Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Steroid Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Swamp Thing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,098 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Jack C on May 2, 2020 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Start on Blocky Horror Picture Show (12d). The bottom crux is now some what harder after a key jug ripped off this spring. Climb the route as normal all the way through the crux. Rather than doing the final finish move to the mega jug rest, continue up and slightly left, doing the hardest moves of this route link-up. Three big, powerful, awesome moves on fairly decent holds put you entering the upper crux of Lost and Found (12b), two bolts from the anchor. Try not to blow it before clipping as you are quite runout from your last clip on Blocky Horror Picture Show. Continue to the anchor of Lost and Found, but rather than clipping, continue up and left into the final 5 bolts of Dirty Johnson (12c). This is endurance climbing at its finest, there are no hard single moves, but putting it all together is where I thought the grade comes from. It could be 5.13a/b, but who knows? This rig has a ton of 4 star movement. A 70m rope barely gets you down.
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