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Routes in Meat Wall

80 Feet of Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blocky Horror Picture Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulges of Munge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardinal Sin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Cuts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crime and Punishment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Czech Mate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Johnson S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drunk Lover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gun Show S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jail Bait S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
James Brown's Wild Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Superlune (aka Polish Sausage) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Le Specimen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lost and Found S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Try S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steroid Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Matt Samet, Scott Leonard
Page Views: 1,394 total, 7/month
Shared By: Pinklebear on Nov 7, 2001
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This was the first route bolted on the Meat Wall and went in during the fall of 1991, when Rifle was first beginning to catch on with Boulder climbers. As you approach up the steps, it's the second route to the left and can be recognized by the blue/grey/black streaked rock and hanging bulge which define the bottom half of the route.

Interestingly enough, this route has NO holds reinforced with glue. When I went back to repeat it a few years ago, I tore a hold off before the first bolt and pitched 10 feet to the deck, then I ripped off a jug above the crux and went for a 30-footer. Sporadic traffic, and the fact that the bottom half of the route is now usually dry, have cleaned things up a bit.

This route is a prime example of fucked bolting, as most of the clips are placed at an arm's extension (a relic of an 80's-style sport climbing ethos). If anyone wants to move them, it's ok by me. Long reaches to good holds and a pumpy headwall on surprisingly slopy pinches define the line.

It is 75 feet long.

Protection

10 quickdraws.

Photos

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13a along with Hand Me. Sep 24, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This route got rebolted with glue-ins during the recent 2011 Rifle RendezSPEW (Cleanup Day). Sep 4, 2011
David Danforth
California/Colorado
David Danforth   California/Colorado
I just want to applaud you guys (Matt, Dave, Lee) or anyone else who was involved in the rebolting. Communication. It's nice to see people communicating with the FA party about rebolting routes. It seems so often people go in and rebolt someone's work with little care of the effort the FA party put in to begin with. That's all. -cheers- Jan 17, 2005
Adam Holmes  
 
This route has been rebolted by someone and they've done a pretty good job of it. Most of the bolts have been repositioned. Great route which deserves more traffic. Oct 13, 2003