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Routes in Meat Wall

80 Feet of Meat S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blocky Horror Picture Show S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bulges of Munge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cardinal Sin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Carnivore S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cold Cuts S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Crime and Punishment S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Czech Mate S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dirt S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Dirty Johnson S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Drunk Lover S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gun Show S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jail Bait S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
James Brown's Wild Ride S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Superlune (aka Polish Sausage) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Le Specimen S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lost and Found S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Next Try S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sausage Boy aka Sam's Route S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Machine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steroid Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,891 total, 15/month
Shared By: Paul Hunnicutt on Jul 22, 2007
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


69 Opinions

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Description

A sporty bottom, followed by a "trady" top section. Climb a pretty continuous, vertical face with decent pockets and mantle onto a big ledge. There is a hidden, left hand pocket that makes the middle of this face much easier. Rest here for a while, then pull around to the left and climb with good holds and better feet up to a knee bar on the ramp to the left. Shake, then continue on crimps up to a chimney. Layback the chimney up to another knee bar halfway up the chimney...shake again, and bust up the layback a few more feet before pulling into a jug inside for your left hand. Stand up and finish on easier moves to the anchors. The chimney had been groveled, but I bet it wasn't pretty. The clip after the knee bar in the chimney is sometimes skipped, because it is quite a reach around back right.

Location

Right at the top of the path you take to get to Cardinal Sin. Just look for the chimney 3/4 up the route.

Protection

11 bolts with quick links - count to make sure as I'm not 100%.

Photos

Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.11c
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.11c
It is also possible to move right onto the face halfway up the layback. This puts you in line with the last two bolts. Aug 10, 2016
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.11c
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.11c
I prefer to trad-style the chimney (skipping the bolt mid-chimney after the chained clip) and find it way easier than the mono pocket section before the mantel.

Awesome route!!! Aug 8, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.11c
Michael Dom  
  5.11c
You can either lay back it throughout or crawl into the corner on the left. Both ways are grueling. Jan 1, 2016
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
I thought this route was great. The layback at the top was a hoot but I'm guessing people are skipping it and lowering off from the two bolts with chain draws, missing out on the exciting finish. At least, that's what I'm guessing. Jun 27, 2011
Jeremy H  
 
Great description, Paul. Jul 31, 2007