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Routes in The Headstone
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[Redacted] T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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[Redacted] S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Haus Flake S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Io S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Richard Wright and Tod Anderson, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 1,599 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
The Epitaph starts on the ledge 100ft up The Headstone. Approach via "Remote Control" on the right or from the left via "Lions, Chipmunks, and Bears". If you use the later route, it is more friendly to carry a few TCUs for the move at the end, by a tree. A double bolt belay has been placed at the base of the Epitaph near the start on the right. Double ropes rap to the ground from here, or you can pick up a mid point rap half way down. Only vertical, the Epitaph starts off hard (5.12c) on very thin friction pads straight up and then angling left to a good system of left-facing edges. Hard flakes and edges lead up and right to a second crux (5.12d) at 50ft. Move right and then zig back left on very long reaches and a pseudo-pocket. Another 5.12a move leads to easier climbing and on to the anchors. This route is very tricky and has relentless thin climbing with a couple of horrible smearing foot placements. Three stars for climbing moves, the continuity, and the position.
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