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Routes in Summit Wall

Future Shock T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kewa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
King Thistle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Book, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhangs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undone Book, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vertical Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderette, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wonderwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 580 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: G. Lowe, E. Anderson, 1967
Page Views: 5,431 total · 32/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Stellar line with great rock.  Bolt on the 2nd pitch crux has reportedly been replaced, but still not for the meek. Old school alpine 9+ R, i.e., modern 5.Hard.  I would compare the crux of this route in style, difficulty, and boldness to the Viewing, 10a, on the Coffin. But the position, exposure, and alpine factor make this feel a bit harder. Quite stimulating.

Protection

Cams from micro to 4 Camalot, nuts, hexes are handy too.

Photos

Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
Awesome climb! I was scared shitless leading that 2nd pitch. A few years ago I followed it and still though it was quite difficult. The pro is sparse and small and I doubt the bolts been replaced.Do the Triple Overhangs & Vertical Smile first they are alot easier! Mar 17, 2005
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.10b/c R
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.10b/c R
Great route. Bold lead. 1/4 bolt still there as of summer of 2003.
Might be a full grade harder than the Viewing on the Coffin. Jun 27, 2006
Climbed this route yesterday. Although the second pitch has a quarter inch bolt I found solid gear leading up to and just past it, not terribly run out. For what it's worth, the crux bolt was one of the healthiest looking 1/4 inchers I have ever clipped. I would say the second pitch is a slow-moving route-finding 10-.
We found the route to be dusty and void of any chalk. If it were to be climbed more often and the chalk were to build up, I am sure it would ease the psych. Jul 16, 2006
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
  5.9+
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
  5.9+
This is a megaclassic line. I know the crux was scary for me in '95, with a 1/4" bolt for "protection" and huge exposure, but really don't think it could be 5.11, given my skills at the time. Once was enough for me, but probably my proudest send ever. Sep 25, 2006
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10 R
My brother lead this so I'm commenting not as a leader, but if you do this at night with headlamps while being eaten alive by mosquitoes it is for sure 5.10+...tricky gear placements and some difficult moves on the crux pitch, then each pitch following is easier and easier. Also stay on route while descending from the summit, again not fun with in the dark. Nov 4, 2006
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
  5.9+ R
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
  5.9+ R
great line, one of the best I have been on in Lone Peak. We did it with a 70m in three pitches.

this route is gonna stay with me, gotta do it again! Jul 25, 2010
Alec LaLonde
  5.10b R
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10b R
Excellent line -- right up there with the other two classics on the Summit Wall. It's not as sustained, but the crux is much harder (and scarier) than anything on Triple Overhangs or Vertical Smile.

The first pitch has a tricky 5.9 move and the third is not a gimme. But, of course, you're thinking about the second. It's solid, sustained 5.10 with mostly adequate gear. I only felt real runout on the section past the quarter incher, which, unsurprisingly, doesn't inspire confidence. Take your time on this pitch, and look closely for gear -- it's there, but inobvious. I placed everything from a green C3 to a #3 camalot.

If you're solid at the grade, climb this route, and savor the movement; it's sweet. Sep 6, 2010
Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
  5.9+ R
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
  5.9+ R
The vintage lead bolt on P2 has been replaced with a 3/8 SS one. The bolt for the belay atop that pitch was left as a history piece, as there is ample finger sized gear next to it for an anchor. Jun 25, 2017

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