Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: FA: Lynn wheeler/James Alto FFA: Jim Dochery/Rick Wyatt
Page Views: 13,990 total · 60/month
Shared By: philfell on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

100 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

Great route that can easily be seen from camp. The first pitch and a half share Triple Overhangs, when you reach the arching fist crack these routes split the Overhangs goes left into the dihedral, Vertical Smile stays in the crack. Follow this crack until it goes into a small left facing corner where the climbing thins out and some technical stemming comes into play. Pull the roof and continue up and right, pass two bolts (we set up a belay at the second bolt). From here go up and right some runout climbing (5.6) leads you to a right facing corner the gear gets better here. At the top of the corner pull the roof by sweet hand jams. Continue up eventually joining the last pitch of the Undone Book. Follow the obvious line to the top.

There aren't many sizable ledges on this route; bring enough gear with you to make belays as you go, and be prepared to be hanging in your harness with ever-increasing exposure at each belay. We did this climb in 4 pitches. For what it's worth I thought the 5.10a rating was about right on (when compared to other 10a's such as Mexican Crack). It's all there and the pro is good on the cruxes.

Protection Suggest change

Double set of cams up to #3 Camalot one #4 Camalot, small nuts for the first crux, a few fist size hexs wouldn't hurt the cause either.