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Routes in Summit Wall

Future Shock T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kewa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
King Thistle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Book, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhangs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undone Book, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vertical Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderette, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wonderwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Type: Trad, Alpine, 520 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ari Menitove, Louis Arevalo, Rob Duncan, Brad Barlage
Page Views: 1,243 total, 19/month
Shared By: Ari Menitove on Sep 11, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The Wonderette is an easier free variation of the Wonderwall (5.9 A3 or 5.13c R). Expect exposed face and crack climbing on and near aretes the whole way. Bolts have been added to the face climbing sections on the upper pitches to make them safer. Sustained at the 5.10+ range with a few harder sections. The single 5.12 move can be avoided with a tension traverse/pendulum. It is also probably possible to climb into the last two pitches by traversing directly into them from the Undone Book. This would avoid both the 5.12 crux and a committing, techy 5.11+ corner.

Location

Start on the Undone Book, at a black diorite band on the right side of the North Sumit Wall (see topo). Climb the Wonderwall to the 5.13c R (or A3) pitch, and then cut left and follow the more moderate system of aretes to the top.

Protection

1 set stoppers, doubles on cams from purple metolius TCU to gold camalot, with triples of blue and yellow TCU's. 1 blue camalot. 1 tiny cam. 5 QD's and many (10) long slings.

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
2nd go an still im not worthy .... the crux is hard!!! as for the R 5.7 up top let them "pucker" sick line ... DF Jul 1, 2013
grk10vq    
i heard all the good lines were taken? (har har) Sep 11, 2012
Psyched on this route and even more so for others to try it out.

I'm thinking of adding a bolt after the 5.12 crux (5.9 R-ish) and right below the summit (5.7R), and would welcome feedback about whether this would improve the experience.

Thanks,

Ari Menitove Sep 11, 2012