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|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 520 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Ari Menitove, Louis Arevalo, Rob Duncan, Brad Barlage|
|Page Views:||1,318 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Ari Menitove on Sep 11, 2012|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
The Wonderette is an easier free variation of the Wonderwall (5.9 A3 or 5.13c R). Expect exposed face and crack climbing on and near aretes the whole way. Bolts have been added to the face climbing sections on the upper pitches to make them safer. Sustained at the 5.10+ range with a few harder sections. The single 5.12 move can be avoided with a tension traverse/pendulum. It is also probably possible to climb into the last two pitches by traversing directly into them from the Undone Book. This would avoid both the 5.12 crux and a committing, techy 5.11+ corner.
Start on the Undone Book, at a black diorite band on the right side of the North Sumit Wall (see topo). Climb the Wonderwall to the 5.13c R (or A3) pitch, and then cut left and follow the more moderate system of aretes to the top.