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Routes in Summit Wall

Future Shock T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kewa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
King Thistle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Book, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhangs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undone Book, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vertical Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderette, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wonderwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Type: Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Beckey, Reese, Irvine, 1962
Page Views: 19,627 total, 122/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

The crux of Triple O's is my favorite pitch in the Wasatch. Tremendous exposure, spectacular rock, bomber gear. While the 1st and 2nd pitches are not as memorable, the crux is all I needed to put this one in my top 3 all time. You can, however, start and finish on Vertical Smile, for a supposedly more consistent, and challenging variation. If Beckey did it first in 1962, you know it's good.

Protection

Cams up to 3 or 4 Camalot, hexes, stoppers.
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
Took Bsmoot's variation to the first two pitches and it is a pretty sweet variation to the first two pitches. A tad bit dirty in a couple sections but worthy of exploration if you want to try something new. to add to bsmoots beta this hand/finger crack variation takes off 30 feet to the left, if the rock is overhung or you're looking at a chimney, you've gone too far. The three pitons I found all seemed to be from different era's all old and bomber. As for the crux I cant really think of a more spot on 5.10 a crux. So protect-able there is no reason to stay away! Jul 19, 2016
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
 
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
 
The crux pitch was amazing, the other pitches were unremarkable. Jun 27, 2016
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
A red Master Cam might be useful for the crux pitch. I felt purple Camalots were a bit too small and green Camalots were a bit too tight on roof #1. Jul 2, 2015
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
  5.10a
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
  5.10a
Found the crux pitch to really be in the #0.75 to #1 range, opening up to #2s for the last overhang and then the 5.8 hand crack portion above it.

We brought 2 #3s, but only used one for the Vertical Smile portion.

An amazing route. The cruxes sure make you winded at 11,000 feet! Jun 29, 2013
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
I think the recommended descent is to traverse over towards Question Mark and go down Pete's Staircase, at least thats how I've done it. Some exposure getting there, but you can rap it with a single 60.
Your 5th pitch description sounds familiar. Jun 5, 2013
Nathaniel Holt
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nathaniel Holt   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Recently got to do this route and it was awesome! Took doubles in Camalots up to size 3, but didnt use everything and there was no need for #4. Pitch 3 has some hollow sketchy rock and up top at the belay there was a larger boulder that I noticed a tad loose (I didnt clean it because there was a party below us in the cirque and it was of decent size where it could have traveled some).

On the hand jams on the final pitch we used all the rope (60m) but it didn't get us to the summit so we had to do a 5th pitch that was 5th class scrambling. Is this normal? Or was the route suppose to go a different way? Also, what way down is best? We too the ridge on back so we could walk down the Alpine side, but it took a while and I would like a better way next time. Jun 13, 2012
Mark SLC
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Mark SLC   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Got on this again yesterday, this time as part of "Vertical Overhangs", linking the sweet 5.8 handcrack and 10a delicate stemming pitches of Vertical Smile, with the 10a triple roofs of Triple Os. Definitely the way to do it, as the lower pitches on Vertical Smile are so much more enjoyable.
We did it in 3 pitches with a 70m, combining the 1st and 2nd (base to end of hand crack) and 3rd and 4th (top of hand crack to belay ledge below triple roofs of triple overhang. Combining the 10a stemming pitch with the 6 R slab pitch seemed logical to us. Pull the roof after the stems and you can see the triple O money pitch (and belay ledge) at 11 o'clock. Very logical linkup, not circuitous as we expected.
For what it's worth, the 10a stemming crux of the vertical smile "3rd" pitch felt more tenuous/heady, while the 10a overhangs final pitch was a bit more physical but straightforward and easy gear.
Standard double rack, triples in #2 and #3 camalot or equiv. Leave the 4 at home. Sep 14, 2010
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.10a
Just did this so can provide some beta as to how to pitch out the Vertical Overhangs variation. P1 follows the right-facing corner to a slung block (5.7 25 m). P2 traverse right into crack with pin and follow the 'vertical smile crack' to a hanging belay at a pin just below a roof. You can get a bomber 2 camalot in this roof for the belay (5.8+ 50 m). Follow the thin but sew-able with small nuts corner to a roof, exit to the right, get some gear before a tricky move and then clip the 2 bolts before working left to a belay just left of the triple overhangs roof - there was a new cord slung around the block there (10a 30 m). Easy climbing leads to the splendid overhangs and the a sweet hand-crack in the left-facing corner above them. You can belay at a nice ledge above the corner (10a 50 m). Easy climbing above to a belay right on the summit! (5.5 20 m). Aug 13, 2009
bsmoot  
A while back we climbed a fun 5.8 variation, which avoids the first chimney. About 35'left of the first pitch we climbed face cracks (Hand & fingers) for 2 pitches to join back up with the regular route. We saw some very old pins on this variation. It was worth doing. May 8, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Amazing how much more secure this pitch is compared to the .10 pitch just below on Vertical Smile. Nothing like .10 hands! Sep 4, 2006
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
 
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
 
After almost a decade since my first ascent, I finally repeated Triple Overhangs on 7/16/05.To edit my previous remarks above, the 2nd pitch was actually alot of fun! Gear: leave the #4 Camalot at home....1 #3 is as big as you need!I coulda used a couple more large stoppers/small hexes.Adding a 3rd #2 camalot for the 2nd and 4th pitches would have been nice, but the runouts aren't bad since the 5.8 hand jams are so secure.The 10a crux has breath-taking exposure, but has BOMBER cams and jams, just plug and chug!If you've done 5.9+ in LCC, don't be afraid of this one! Aug 4, 2005