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Routes in Summit Wall

Future Shock T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kewa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
King Thistle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Book, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhangs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undone Book, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vertical Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderette, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wonderwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
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Elevation: 11,196 ft
GPS: 40.526, -111.755 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 31,643 total · 181/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on May 19, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq
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The Summit Wall is the highest rock in the cirque, with the summit reaching to 11,253' and it is the most obvious destination for cirque climbers. Unless someone has been creative recently, five routes ascend this formation ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.10a, including one aid route at 5.9 A3. The rock is classic alpine granite, with some granularity that can make early-season climbing a bit spicy, but very solid nonetheless. As with all alpine environments, helmets are a good option as rock fall is possible, and (the bigger risk) hikers who reach the summit from the backside are prone to send the occasional projectile into the void. The Falcon guide describes this as some of the finest granite in the Wasatch, representing the "whole spectrum of climbing repertoire-from stems, to jams, to bold faces". It might be good for them to add that roofs are also significant elements to a couple of the climbs as well (and crux elements at that).

Getting There

The approach from the meadow is fairly straightforward. Hike up the snow-field (or scree if late season) towards the huge chimney that splits the triangular north and more rectangular south sections of the cirque. As you begin to approach the chimney, work left onto the shelf at the base of the upper section of the formation. This is the area where the pines have established themselves, below the climbs but above the blocky section that meets the meadow. All the climbs begin from this shelf.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Summit Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Open Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Triple Overhangs
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vertical Smile
Trad, Alpine
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
The Undone Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Open Book
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Triple Overhangs
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Vertical Smile
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
The Undone Book
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
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