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Routes in Summit Wall

Future Shock T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kewa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
King Thistle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Book, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhangs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undone Book, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vertical Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderette, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wonderwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 90 ft
FA: Garon Coriz, Matt Evans, Duc Phuong
Page Views: 152 total · 5/month
Shared By: Garon C on Jun 29, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

50-60 feet to the right and below the start of Open Book (5.7). A series of cracks run up and right from the ledge system (5.7ish). This is the start for Future Shock (5.10). Climb the cracks for 40 feet that are nicely protected with nuts. About 20 feet below an old sling, a roof opens up on the left. A nice hand jam that is also big enough for protection allows for the transition left into wide flaring cracks via a small side-pull/crimp (5.10ish). Small cams are helpful but gear placements are still difficult. Pinches and awkward hand jams (5.10ish) give access to slopers and crimps to the ledge shared with the top of the first pitch of Open Book (5.7).

Location

50 feet right of Open Book, look up and notice the roof-like structure 40-50 feet up in the middle of the wall.
You can use this as a variation to Open Book. The cracks directly above the belay have relatively no sites for protection so traversing left to the cracks of Open Book's second pitch is the best option to keep going up to the summit.

Protection

Standard rack. Nothing larger than a #2 cam though a #3 is helpful on Open Book.

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