Elevation: 10,828 ft
GPS: 40.527, -111.757 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 201,953 total · 1,022/month
Shared By: Vince Romney on May 13, 2004 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

Alpine granite within view of the valley floor! The cirque has always been a bit of the Canadian Rockies right here in Salt Lake. Beautiful four to five hundred foot, almost-vertical granite with cracks, seams, off-widths, chimneys, and exquisite face climbing surround an idyllic alpine meadow, with snowfields providing fresh water until late July.

Routes range from 5.4 to 5.12. If you're stout enough to make the 5600'+ vertical, six-mile long grunt, the climbing will more than reward your efforts. For best effect, plan on spending 3 or 4 days and sampling a half-dozen or more of the best climbs. Don't leave without doing the "triple crown" of cirque climbs... Triple Overhangs (5.10a), Vertical Smile (5.10a), and The Undone Book (5.9+ R). All three are correctly given four stars.

Getting There

The hike I take is a bitch and has minimal to no natural water until you're almost into the cirque. This lack of water has nearly killed a few folks, myself included. Take plenty of water and hike at a moderate pace.

There are two or three well established approaches, but as of this date I've only used the Corner Canyon approach. I've heard both good and bad about the Alpine approach, but I can't address it accurately. There are a ton of hike descriptions for both on the web as well.

As far as the Corner Canyon Approach goes, here's my version:

Because most everyone knows where BCC and LCC are, I'll start there. Follow Wasatch Drive south from BCC or LCC. Stay on Wasatch as it meanders through the kings and their castles and ultimately turns west. After turning west, travel another couple of miles and at the first stop light, turn left onto Draper Parkway.

Follow Draper Parkway south until it also bends and heads west. At the first light after it heads west, turn left onto 1300 East.

Follow 1300 East to the "Roundabout". Exit east out of the roundabout onto Pioneer Road (12300 south).

Follow Pioneer Road east until you hit 2000 East. Turn right, and head south as it transitions from pavement to dirt.

I usually park about about 3 miles up this dirt road at an obvious pullout (the Falcon guide book has a couple adequate maps, but some good route-finding skills are a bonus).

Hump the packs on and head up the four-wheel drive trails to the northeast of the pullout. Look up the hillside and you'll see two major rock outcroppings. Both of these have trails leading up to them, but you ONLY want to head to the east-most outcropping, creatively called "Lone Rock".

By the time you reach this rock, you'll be covered in powdery dust and will start wondering what you've got yourself into. From Lone Rock, head north up the steep scrub-oak covered hillside, following a faint but visible trail. When you get to a steep ravine, don't descend into it, but follow the edge of the ravine east until you catch the trail that proceeds north again up the large ridge above you.

Follow the steep trail and switch-backs all the way up this ridge, and after your intestines completely knot up and come out of your throat, you'll join another trail that comes in from the west (this is called the "Draper Ridge Trail", which I've descended before and is NOT recommended).

As you head east on this trail the hike actually begins to be enjoyable. The scenery improves consistently until you feel as though you're in the Canadian Rockies. The trail is pretty obvious, and passes through a pine forest, then across a huge granite slab, and then up the drainage that runs from the cirque itself.

Where the trail becomes faint, look for cairns as they are plentiful. Once you begin moving up through the obvious talus towards the cirque itself, don't head north along another line of cairns. Stay eastbound and begin working your way over the huge boulders in the talus field.

Once you crest the talus, you'll see the meadow and the cirque beyond. Work across the boulders to the meadow, drop the pack, stuff your head in the icy water, and prepare for some truly outstanding routes.

Remember you are climbing/camping in a wilderness area, and please pack it ALL out.

A few side notes; the water usually only lasts until late July so climbing in late summer or fall requires packing water in. Emergency contact can be made via cell phone by standing within view of the valley (at least with AT&T). Try to tread lightly in the camping areas so the meadow can maintain its pristine nature.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lone Peak Cirque

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 123
The Open Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Pika Paradise
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 225
Lowe Route
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
The Answer
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 149
Center Thumb
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 148
Triple Overhangs
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 74
Vertical Smile
Trad, Alpine
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 31
The Undone Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Out of the Question
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Hyperform
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Shadow of Death
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 9
P-38
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Da Black and Gold
Trad, Alpine
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 14
Taivallista
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
 6
Question Mark Wall Route
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Open Book Summit Wall
 123
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Pika Paradise Question Mark Wall
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Lowe Route Question Mark Wall
 225
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
The Answer Question Mark Wall
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Center Thumb S Summit Wall
 149
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Triple Overhangs Summit Wall
 148
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Vertical Smile Summit Wall
 74
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
The Undone Book Summit Wall
 31
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Out of the Question Question Mark Wall
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Hyperform Hyperform Wall
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Shadow of Death Hyperform Wall
 21
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
P-38 S Summit Wall
 9
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Da Black and Gold S Summit Wall
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Taivallista S Summit Wall
 14
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Question Mark Wall Route Question Mark Wall
 6
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
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