Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches
FA: Bret and Stu Ruckman
Page Views: 7,104 total · 41/month
Shared By: Joe Auer on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

35 Opinions

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This excellent route is just right of the Lowe Route.

Climb a flake, heading right past a fixed pin and up a dihedral.

The second pitch wanders past some fixed gear and ends at a two bolt anchor. This pitch is probably the crux but not as heady as the first.

The last pitch climbs through the '?' and is reminiscent of the Lowe Route's last pitch, except without the crack for gear. Take your time on this pitch, it's easy to get off route and the pro is spaced. Supposedly, there's a bolt somewhere, I never found it; it probably sucks anyway. There are some good patina horns to sling.


Smaller stoppers, TCUs, slings for horns.
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
The bolt is up there somewhere, not to far below the top-out. It is hard to find though!Maybe a little right from where you might think it should be.

This is a great route - probably my favorite in the Cirque! Mar 31, 2005
This is a fantastic route. The last pitch is incredible. Caution though: Protection on the first pitch is a bit sparse. The belay atop this pitch uses cams behind a big, detached rock...sporty belay! Oct 6, 2007
The initial flake is enormously juggy and fun. You can back up the fixed pin at the top of the flake with a hand sized piece before you move back right. There is a belay with fixed pins in the dihedral that is comfortable but sketch. There is also a two bolt belay just to the right that is hanging and uncomfortable yet very bomber.

The second pitch is worth the patience. There is a bolt on the last pitch and its kind of where you want it because it turns 5.8 with some great exposure. I was glad to find it. In some ways, this isn't as spectacular as Vertical Overhangs but it is more fun. Oct 14, 2008
Sandy, UT
notmyname   Sandy, UT
What an AMAZING climb!
Every pitch is awesome. The dihedral in the 1st pitch is sporty gear, and the wild horn moves up to the belay is mind-blowing. The belay is super sketchy and doesn't take extra gear very well - I slung a chockstone and backed it up to the pins.
The 2nd pitch crux is really hard. As with Hyperform, if you can climb 10b in the cirque you're solid on 10b pretty much anywhere.
I did not set any sort of speed record on the last pitch! There are cam placements to ease the mind, but very few and far between. There are some excellent chickenheads to sling.
I had no idea where to go at the tippy top. The topo shows the line going straight up through the blanks overhanging last 20 feet. ????? huh?
After much traversing left and right from my last bomber chickenhead, I went right where. Not such a good idea since I Z'd up the face and had to do some light footwork over some super sketchy blocks. My partner/girlfriend was not pleased.

Bring up to a 3" cam (which I used on the last pitch in a hole inside a chickenhead) Aug 4, 2009
Alec LaLonde  
This is an incredible line -- every bit as good, if not better, than the Lowe Route. The 5.10 sections are short and sporty with fantastic, varied movement.

The top of the first pitch now has a bolted belay -- probably a good idea as that detached block is scary! I found the protection to be adequate throughout -- there are a few runout sections on the last pitch, but the climbing is easy on excellent patina and in one of the best positions in the Wasatch. Sep 6, 2010
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
The bolt on the last pitch sits in the middle of and protects the line of patina that goes straight through the roof above the question mark. Aug 19, 2011
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
IMO, pitch 1 could use a well placed bolt in the corner to make this one much more fun and much less scary. But that's the cirque for you. Sep 16, 2012
Charlie S
Ogden, UT
Charlie S   Ogden, UT
An amazing route! Really cool to climb through the question mark.

Beta alert:

The 10a crux is not that bad. The 10b crux above it is spicy. Make sure your first cam or nut in that dihedral is bomber. It's a long way to the next good handhold and protection.

The book indicates that the second pitch crux is after the piton. This is incorrect: the piton marks the end of the crux.

There are more than two bolts on the face above the 2nd pitch crux. Choose wisely or make a nice zig-zagging line like me.

Pitch 3 is significantly easier than the previous pitches, and a stellar line at that! The bolt is between the two blank-looking dihedrals on textured rock about 15 ft above the question mark. It's an old quarter-incher on rusted 1/16th inch bent steel. Jun 29, 2014
Ryan Arnold
Ryan Arnold  
This might be my favorite climb of all time. Unlike Vertical Smile, the pitch ratings aren't "old school" and felt accurate. The final pitch is mostly 5.6 with a single 5.8 move after clipping the final bolt. Aug 3, 2014
Brent Barghahn
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
The bolt on the last pitch has been replaced with a 3/8 stainless one. Jun 25, 2017
Jackson's Hooooleeeeeee, WY
Prametheus   Jackson's Hooooleeeeeee, WY
This climb boasts incredible movement on some outstanding stone. The bolted belay at top of P2 has seen better days - rusty bolts. Maybe its just surface rust. I don't know. This belay worked fine for us but it sure would be inspiring to see a new set of SS 3/8 bolts on this hog. Kudos to Brent for replacing the top bolt - thanks dude!
This route can be done in 2 pitches, about 65M to top of P2. Jun 13, 2018