The Open Book
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 149 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||T.Spencer and R.Perla, 1961|
|Page Views:||25,739 total · 114/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C|
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Straight forward route finding, good protection, and an incredible location make this a prized route.
Approach up the boulder field to the right of the summit wall. Climb up an easy dihedral (5.3) for 40 feet to belay on a large ledge before the dihedral continues up at a slightly steeper angle.
All belays require natural anchors. Some horns may be slung for anchors, but these horns tend to not be in comfortable stances.
Pitch 1 - 5.6 - Climb up the v shaped dihedral for 30 feet until you reach a horizontal flake that transitions you 10 feet over to the right and up 10 feet to the belay ledge. A #2 Camalot perfectly protects the flake transition.
Pitch 2 - 5.7 Awkward Chimney - Calling this a chimney is almost misleading. It is more like a offwidth crack with plenty of holds inside and outside the crack so that you never have to use offwidth technique. The pitch goes directly up the wall out ten feet from the large dihedral on the left. There is a thin crack to the left the offwidth that takes good protection or use the crack at the back of the offwidth. Belay on a good ledge above the cracks.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Bear Hug - Climb numerous fluted cracks above the ledge. After 50 feet the cracks form two perfect parallel hand cracks that continue for another 30 feet. After another 20 feet you reach a good belay ledge. You'll pass two historic pitons on this pitch.
Pitch 4 - 5.7 - Easier climbing continues above the ledge as you lean left towards the large dihedral that you have been following for the entire route. Place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack just below a small roof and then pull over to the right of the roof. From here easy moves take you directly to the summit.
Descent(edited): From the Summit of Lone Peak, you can descend north or south.
To the north it is all hiking. If you are tempted to rap down part of the Flying Buttress wall, don't. Hike north near the ridge, then west back down to cirque, look for the hiker's trail.
To the south, you must scramble over the excitingly jagged ridge to the south summit, and then down around to the saddle between S.Summit and Question Mark wall. Then, follow ramps down to the left to the Question Mark Rappels from trees. Maybe 2 half rope raps, or one double rope rap, but don't quote me on that. (double rope rap with 60m definitely gets you down)