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Routes in Summit Wall

Future Shock T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kewa T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
King Thistle T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Open Book, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Triple Overhangs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Undone Book, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Vertical Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wonderette, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wonderwall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: T.Spencer and R.Perla, 1961
Page Views: 16,823 total, 104/month
Shared By: Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


77 Opinions

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Description

Straight forward route finding, good protection, and an incredible location make this a prized route.

Approach up the boulder field to the right of the summit wall. Climb up an easy dihedral (5.3) for 40 feet to belay on a large ledge before the dihedral continues up at a slightly steeper angle.

All belays require natural anchors. Some horns may be slung for anchors, but these horns tend to not be in comfortable stances.

Pitch 1 - 5.6 - Climb up the v shaped dihedral for 30 feet until you reach a horizontal flake that transitions you 10 feet over to the right and up 10 feet to the belay ledge. A #2 Camalot perfectly protects the flake transition.

Pitch 2 - 5.7 Awkward Chimney - Calling this a chimney is almost misleading. It is more like a offwidth crack with plenty of holds inside and outside the crack so that you never have to use offwidth technique. The pitch goes directly up the wall out ten feet from the large dihedral on the left. There is a thin crack to the left the offwidth that takes good protection or use the crack at the back of the offwidth. Belay on a good ledge above the cracks.

Pitch 3 - 5.7 Bear Hug - Climb numerous fluted cracks above the ledge. After 50 feet the cracks form two perfect parallel hand cracks that continue for another 30 feet. After another 20 feet you reach a good belay ledge. You will pass two historic pitons on this pitch.

Pitch 4 - 5.7 - Easier climbing continues above the ledge as you lean left towards the large dihedral that you have been following for the entire route. Place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack just below a small roof and then pull over to the right of the roof. From here easy moves take you directly to the summit.

Descent(edited): From the Summit of Lone Peak, you can descend north or south.

To the north it is all hiking. If you are tempted to rap down part of the Flying Buttress wall, don't. Hike north near the ridge, then west back down to cirque, look for the hiker's trail.

To the south, you must scramble over the excitingly jagged ridge to the south summit, and then down around to the saddle between S.Summit and Question Mark wall. Then, follow ramps down to the left to the Question Mark Rappels from trees. Maybe 2 half rope raps, or one double rope rap, but don't quote me on that.

Protection

Cams, Hexes, Nuts, and plenty of long slings.
My partner and I did this 8/27/17 in 4 pitches, leaving a very short scramble to the summit. Real fun, a bit of a wide grovel with fun movement throughout. We had a single rack to 4 with a few doubled hands sizes and that worked fine. The 4 wasn't very necessary, but I made use of it on each pitch. Didn't place a single nut. Trad draws are a necessity as there is a fair bit of wandering. Great route, we walked off the hikers trail. If you start early you'll have shade before noon. P2 and 3 had some kinda strenyous moves, but there's lots of features to work with! Atop p3, be sure to move left over the bulge into the dihedral, instead of straight through the roof, unless you want to do the harderfinish. Aug 28, 2017
Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.7+
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.7+
What a route! Climbed this a couple times over the past few days and absolutely loved it! I'd recommend linking the first two pitches, especially since P1 isn't long or memorable enough to stand on its own. I found it a tad confusing and pro harder to find, but that section is less steep and doesn't warrant a pg-13 rating.

It felt much more natural to stay left in the dihedral crack on pitch 2 rather than following the offwidth. Agreed that it's still around 5.7, the big plus is that good pro is always available in the dihedral crack, while it looked kinda sparse in the offwidth.

Pitch 3 (or 2, if doing the route in 3) is long! We thought it was over at a small ledge, but pulled out the route description and realized there was more bear hugging to be had. Just keep going until you're at a v-shaped ledge with a small roof.

As far as the rack goes, we used something fairly similar to Perin's recommendation above: BD #.5-#3, an extra #.75 & #2, mastercam #2 & 3, DMM alloy offsets and BD stoppers #4-6. It felt fine to me and a little sparse to my partner. Jul 23, 2017
ddriver
SLC
ddriver   SLC
Finally did this route and was surprised at how consistently good it is. I expected lots of rounded runnels, but there is really very little of this. There is absolutely no awkward climbing required here and no polished rock, either. Classic friendly climbing, well worth repeating.

I would change the route description for pitch 2. There is no reason to climb the "awkward chimney." Stay in the dihedral. It is clean, protects well, and the step across to the belay is easy. This variation is also 5.7 and not awkward.

The "bear hug" is clean splitter jamming, not rounded.

Belay ledges are all rather large, easy to protect and find. Can't see any sling belays happening here. Aug 6, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7
Excellent climb! Horrible approach to the cirque, haha. Worst hike of my life. Anyway, the crux for me was the traverse from the first flake on pitch 1 (exiting the flake, there weren't that many positive holds). And the other crux was the chimney with a backpack! Oh man, so exhausting. The twin cracks were amazing. Try staying in the left crack as long as possible, there are amazing hand and foot jams for about 40ft. Eventually you'll have to "bear hug" though. Jul 2, 2013
AGoo  
Wasatch MTN Man, I have your cams, send me a message or call and I will return them to you. Aug 27, 2012
AGoo  
Climbed Open Book on Pie and Beer Day last week. Some how lost a number 2 TCU and Wild Country sling draw. If you find it and would be kind enough to return it I would gladly make it worth your time i.e. Beer, Money, a Thank You Card or Cookies.

763-458-4825 Jul 30, 2012
wasatch-mtn-man
  5.7+
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.7+
Super sweet climb. Had some interesting weather (rain, wind). Used a lot of gear. Had one set of nuts, double set of Camalots up to #3, one #4 and wished for bigger gear (but who wants to haul it up there) along with one set of C3's with doubles in #1 and #2. Shoulder-length slings extremely useful. We linked one and two but I made the mistake of missing the belay stance at the end of P2 which looking back seemed really vague so ended up rigging a hanging belay 30 feet up pitch #3.

Awkward, interesting climbing with hand and foot jams, arm bars, stemming, face climbing and, yes, bear hugging. There are some slippery, grainy foot holds you have to watch out for; one of which caught me completely off-guard (thanks C4 #2).

To start P1 we scrambled up to the diorite block and belayed from there.

(BTW - left a #2 C3 and #2 C4 up there somehow if someone can grab it for me I will bring cookies) Jul 20, 2012
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
I'm going to speak blasphemy here but I enjoyed this route as much as the Lowe route. I thought the chimney pitch and the fluted cracks pitches were really fun, and it tops out right onto the summit. We did it in 3 pitches, linking 1-2. We saw lots of folks belaying on slung horns in horrible stances which made no sense to us. Link 1-2 to top of chimney and belay in a wide groove. Pitch 3 is a full 200' to a bomber ledge below a roof with medium gear for belay. Pitch 4 goes up into the obvious chimney then over the roof with a pin and belay 10 feet below the summit, before crawling through a hole onto the top. Superb for the grade. Sep 6, 2011
Brian G
  5.7
Brian G  
  5.7
Lynn, Go right. It's pretty obvious when you're there.

Fun route but not the exposure you expect or want when in the cirque...at least in my opinion. Jun 29, 2010
Lynn Stephens
Orem, Utah
Lynn Stephens   Orem, Utah
The beta on the web page says go right around the roof on the 4th pitch, but the description on the photo says to go left. Which is it? May 14, 2010
dfrancom
Palmer, AK
dfrancom   Palmer, AK
I was just up there on Saturday July 18th! there is still a little snow inside the cirque. Water won't be a problem. you can melt snow with a stove. I used the Alpine approach. Lot of water along the way. No snow on the trail in. Jul 20, 2009
Taylor Morgan
Draper, UT
Taylor Morgan   Draper, UT
Anyone been up to the cirque recently? I'm wondering how water/snow conditions are. Considering an attempt in early August. Jul 20, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
We had a single rack and it was plenty (and we did it in three pitches).

As I recall, it was a set of BD stoppers (#4 to #13), a set of BD C4's (#.3 to #3, with an extra #2), BD C3's #0 to #2, a dozen or so trad draws plus two or three double length slings. Jul 9, 2009
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
  5.7
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
  5.7
Maybe it was the cold, lightning, thunder and hail that made this route not so fun. I need to try it again on a day with better weather.
This is a solid 5.7 climb all the way to the last pitch. The off-width is the hardest section in my opinion. In fact that sharp granite is like a cheese grater on the arms and legs when you get sucked into it. Stay out where there are good holds!
You will find awesome foot jams in the "Bear Hug" section. Not too difficult at all. I found this route protected well, but bring lots of big pro. We ran out of large cams and nuts on almost every pitch, therefore we had to do it in 5 pitches instead of 4. Also made protecting the belay interesting. The plus? It gets you to the top of Lone Peak where the view is amazing! Sep 22, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
Moved Lee Jensen's description from a comment to the route description. Nov 13, 2007
Mark Michaels
Draper, UT
 
Mark Michaels   Draper, UT
 
If you study the photo, you shouldn't have any major route finding problems! Sep 25, 2006