We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn. This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2). Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the obvious twin cracks. Our pitch 3 started from underneath a small roof. You must traverse left into the chimney from here. There's a piton in chimney right where the roof is. We then scrambled to the top. Dotted lines are behind rock in the picture.

All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Lone Peak Cirque > Summit Wall > Open Book (5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn. This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2). Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the obvious twin cracks. Our pitch 3 started from underneath a small roof. You must traverse left into the chimney from here. There's a piton in chimney right where the roof is. We then scrambled to the top. Dotted lines are behind rock in the picture.

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The Open Book with route, belay station, and some notes. Note the slack like in the high upper right! A great climb. Photo from July 4th, 2020

Compared to Lee Jensen's photo, you can see that pitch 4 no longer has a roof, likely due to the rockfall in June 2023.

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4.5 from 4 votes

Ryan Henderson

Jul 9, 2013

“We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn. This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2). Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the obvious twin cracks. Our pitch 3 started from underneath a small roof. You must traverse left into the chimney from here. There's a piton in chimney right where the roof is. We then scrambled to the top. Dotted lines are behind rock in the picture.”

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Going up the boulders to the beginning of the first pitch. Continue up to the right around the base of the wall.

The Open Book with route, belay station, and some notes. Note the slack like in the high upper right! A great climb. Photo from July 4th, 2020

We scrambled up some 5th class stuff to a cordelette/webbing around a horn. This is where we started our climb(allowed for an easy link up of pitches 1 & 2). Pitch 2 (for us) started underneath the obvious twin cracks. Our pitch 3 started from underneath a small roof. You must traverse left into the chimney from here. There's a piton in chimney right where the roof is. We then scrambled to the top. Dotted lines are behind rock in the picture.

Compared to Lee Jensen's photo, you can see that pitch 4 no longer has a roof, likely due to the rockfall in June 2023.

P3. Of the 3 parallel cracks, you'll naturally want to use the 2 on the left as shown. The climbers left crack is hands/thin hands. The middle crack is wider and has good feet/calf jams (for the average 160lb, 5'9" adult male climber).

This is the exit to the summit block. After P4 (depending on where you belay from), there's a 5.easy chimney scramble. John Gaynes pictured here, finishing it up...unroped.

Showing the approach and all four pitches. Pitches one and four are hidden behind the rock as shown by the dotted lines.

Top of the 3rd, "bear hug" section.

Top of 3rd pitch of Open Book.

Eating rock for breakfast on pitch II

Lone peak summit wall. Open Book. Trip Report: http://rjohnasay.blogspot.com/2011/07/lone-peak-trad-climbingworld-class.html

N. Summit Wall Beta

Almost to the crux of the fourth pitch. Fifteen feet above you see a small roof that you transition out right around.

Looking down from the belay at the top of pitch three. Here you do an awkward exit from the bear hug cracks.

First pitch nearly completed.

P3 Bear Hug Section Devin.

Half way up pitch three. The flutted cracks are shown here. Above this are the bear hug cracks.

Artistic stemming action

Le summit

The proof is in the plaque

Setting off to turn some pages on 'Open Book'

Leading P2 "the awkward chimney" on The Open Book. Partner and I both agreed, this pitch kinda blows. Tell your partner it's the money pitch and let them lead it.

Grace cruising pitch 3 of the Open Book

The approach to Open Book. Also a good view of the start of Center Thumb.

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