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Routes in South Summit Wall

Be Here Now T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Center Thumb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Da Black and Gold T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Expanding Man T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Free Mexican Air Force T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Gardner's Delight , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gold Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Escape, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Heart of Gold T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Inner Vision T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Thumb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
P-38 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Thumb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Taivallista T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeff Lowe, Bruce Roghaar, 1970 Probable FFA: Noah Bigwood and Kris Dockstader 2006
Page Views: 3,218 total, 26/month
Shared By: jonathan knight on Aug 28, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is an excellent route that will be a classic once it cleans up a bit. It works fairly well to climb it in 3 pitches. The first pitch is probably easy 5.10. The roof on the second pitch is the crux while the upper roof on pitch three has been climbed by two variations, both around mid 5.10.

Location

Located on the third buttress of the wall, it climbs a direct line just looker's right of the arete, through two, prominent roofs.

Protection

A standard rack with a good selection of small cams and wires is all you need. Doubles in some sizes are handy for constructing the belays. There is a pretty good looking 1/4" bolt above the roof on the last pitch.

Photos

Stanley McKnight
Paradise Valley, Arizona
Stanley McKnight   Paradise Valley, Arizona
Taivallista is Finnish for heavenly. Lived there for a while and learned the language. Haven't gotten on the route yet but it looks awesome! Mar 27, 2017
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Excellent route that is getting cleaned up. We pulled off a few small blocks on the route, and cleaned a few sections of cracks on the way up. Jul 19, 2013
bsmoot  
Hey Rob:

Jeff said the name, "Taivallista means heavenly in Danish". Aug 12, 2012
Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
Great route! Really inspired line. Crux is interesting and protects well with small offset nuts, C3s and aliens. Climbed in 4 pitches, one in the 1st L-facing dihedral, one above crux roof, one above final big roof (we pulled it on right on jams and jugs) and up a slab past an old bolt, one short 5.easy pitch to top. Aug 12, 2012
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
 
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
 
Curious, anyone know the meaning of the name 'Taivallista?' could it be a latin soap opera? enquiring minds would love some Wasatch history Sep 15, 2011
CalmAdrenaline
SL,UT
 
CalmAdrenaline   SL,UT
 
Spicy buttcrack micro nut/cam lichen encrusted flare before the first roof. One of the best looking lines in the Cirque. Nice onsight Rob. Sep 16, 2010
Rob Duncan
Salt Lake City
 
Rob Duncan   Salt Lake City
 
we went right at the big roof on pitch three, pulling the roof through juggy hand jams. this route will get quite a bit better if it cleans up a bit more, but the hard parts are clean enough. Sep 7, 2010
Ari Menitove  
 
Fun route. Indeed, as it continues to clean up with traffic, it is just going to get better. It was a little tricky for us to find exactly where the route begins. It starts in a left facing corner with a clean crack. If you look up about 70 feet, you can see an unusually rectangular roof with a black spot near its center. Just above and right of this roof is a triangular tiered roof feature formed by two intersecting seams. Hope that helps. Jul 19, 2009