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Summit Wall

Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Lone Peak Cirque

Description

The Summit Wall is the highest rock in the cirque, with the summit reaching to 11,253' and it is the most obvious destination for cirque climbers. Unless someone has been creative recently, five routes ascend this formation ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.10a, including one aid route at 5.9 A3. The rock is classic alpine granite, with some granularity that can make early-season climbing a bit spicy, but very solid nonetheless. As with all alpine environments, helmets are a good option as rock fall is possible, and (the bigger risk) hikers who reach the summit from the backside are prone to send the occasional projectile into the void. The Falcon guide describes this as some of the finest granite in the Wasatch, representing the "whole spectrum of climbing repertoire-from stems, to jams, to bold faces". It might be good for them to add that roofs are also significant elements to a couple of the climbs as well (and crux elements at that).

Getting There

The approach from the meadow is fairly straightforward. Hike up the snow-field (or scree if late season) towards the huge chimney that splits the triangular north and more rectangular south sections of the cirque. As you begin to approach the chimney, work left onto the shelf at the base of the upper section of the formation. This is the area where the pines have established themselves, below the climbs but above the blocky section that meets the meadow. All the climbs begin from this shelf.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 173
Triple Overhangs
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 88
Vertical Smile
Trad, Alpine
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 2
King Thistle
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 34
The Undone Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
The Wonderette
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
 2
Wonderwall
Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 135
The Open Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 2
Kewa
Trad, Alpine
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Future Shock
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Ridge
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Triple Overhangs
 173
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Vertical Smile
 88
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
King Thistle
 2
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
The Undone Book
 34
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
The Wonderette
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Wonderwall
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 Trad, Aid, Alpine 4 pitches
The Open Book
 135
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Kewa
 2
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine
Future Shock
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lone Peak Summit
[Hide Photo] Lone Peak Summit
Summit Wall: Lone Peak Cirque
[Hide Photo] Summit Wall: Lone Peak Cirque
open book 5.7 nice sunrise with good friends, great climbing, a touch cold..
[Hide Photo] open book 5.7 nice sunrise with good friends, great climbing, a touch cold..
General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
[Hide Photo] General Approach Routes and Wall ID's
N. Summit Wall Beta
[Hide Photo] N. Summit Wall Beta
N. Summit Wall
[Hide Photo] N. Summit Wall
eric atwell appreciating the view after topping out on vertical overhangs
[Hide Photo] eric atwell appreciating the view after topping out on vertical overhangs
the summit
[Hide Photo] the summit
A panoramic view eastward from the summit of <em>Lone Peak</em>.
[Hide Photo] A panoramic view eastward from the summit of Lone Peak.
The Summit Walls
[Hide Photo] The Summit Walls
Summit Wall
[Hide Photo] Summit Wall