[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! I was scared shitless leading that 2nd pitch. A few years ago I followed it and still though it was quite difficult. The pro is sparse and small and I doubt the bolts been replaced.Do the Triple Overhangs & Vertical Smile first they are alot easier! Mar 17, 2005

[Hide Comment] Great route. Bold lead. 1/4 bolt still there as of summer of 2003.
Might be a full grade harder than the Viewing on the Coffin. Jun 27, 2006

[Hide Comment] Climbed this route yesterday. Although the second pitch has a quarter inch bolt I found solid gear leading up to and just past it, not terribly run out. For what it's worth, the crux bolt was one of the healthiest looking 1/4 inchers I have ever clipped. I would say the second pitch is a slow-moving route-finding 10-.
We found the route to be dusty and void of any chalk. If it were to be climbed more often and the chalk were to build up, I am sure it would ease the psych. Jul 16, 2006

[Hide Comment] This is a megaclassic line. I know the crux was scary for me in '95, with a 1/4" bolt for "protection" and huge exposure, but really don't think it could be 5.11, given my skills at the time. Once was enough for me, but probably my proudest send ever. Sep 25, 2006

[Hide Comment] My brother lead this so I'm commenting not as a leader, but if you do this at night with headlamps while being eaten alive by mosquitoes it is for sure 5.10+...tricky gear placements and some difficult moves on the crux pitch, then each pitch following is easier and easier. Also stay on route while descending from the summit, again not fun with in the dark. Nov 4, 2006

[Hide Comment] great line, one of the best I have been on in Lone Peak. We did it with a 70m in three pitches.

this route is gonna stay with me, gotta do it again! Jul 25, 2010

[Hide Comment] Excellent line -- right up there with the other two classics on the Summit Wall. It's not as sustained, but the crux is much harder (and scarier) than anything on Triple Overhangs or Vertical Smile.

The first pitch has a tricky 5.9 move and the third is not a gimme. But, of course, you're thinking about the second. It's solid, sustained 5.10 with mostly adequate gear. I only felt real runout on the section past the quarter incher, which, unsurprisingly, doesn't inspire confidence. Take your time on this pitch, and look closely for gear -- it's there, but inobvious. I placed everything from a green C3 to a #3 camalot.

If you're solid at the grade, climb this route, and savor the movement; it's sweet. Sep 6, 2010

[Hide Comment] The vintage lead bolt on P2 has been replaced with a 3/8 SS one. The bolt for the belay atop that pitch was left as a history piece, as there is ample finger sized gear next to it for an anchor. Jun 25, 2017

[Hide Comment] Did this with Stan Pitcher last summer. After clipping the bolt on the crux pitch, I stuck right thinking this was the way to go... it was not. After leaving the bolt I was only able to place three pieces, two of which would not have protected a fall. Needless to say, cheat left after the bolt. This is where the vast majority of what little gear there is will be found! Mar 31, 2020

[Hide Comment] Pretty fun route, though I'd regard it as a "second-tier classic." Not as good as Vertical-Overhangs, Center Thumb, or Out of the Question. I also felt like all the pitches were sandbagged.

P1 - Mostly easy with a short section of slippery 5.9 laybacking.

P2 - The first half of the route (before the bolt) has solid gear about every body length. (Don't leave the bigger cams with your follower! I placed a #3 and #4 C4.) After the bomber bolt, the gear gets spacier and whackier. I had to weave left and right, making 5.10 moves about fifteen above marginal placements. In terms of difficulty, the hardest moves felt similar to the crux of Out of the Question (10b). However., I'd grade this pitch 10c because it's far more sustained than that pitch.

P3 - Did everyone bail? This long pitch was shockingly dirty compared to the previous two. Felt more like 5.8 and ended on a great ledge.

P4 - Still dirty. Most of this pitch felt very easy, but I did encounter a short section of sequential finger locks. Let's call it a 5.7 boulder problem. Sep 13, 2020

[Hide Comment] If you're a confident trad climber and have a wide array of smaller cams, you're never looking at that lengthy of a fall on p2. For a route to be "R" my understanding is you're risking a bad injury if you were to fall. The second pitch has enough gear, and the wall is steep enough where you wouldn't hit anything on the way down. Basically - don't let that rating turn you away from this climb. Great position on the wall and prime viewing to get psyched on the Wonderette arete to the right of you. Jul 18, 2021

[Hide Comment] That second pitch is quite a stunner, one of the best moderate face climbs in the Wasatch! In regards to the ratings debate I think 5.9 is appropriate, no move felt harder then that. I was also able to fiddle in plenty of gear past the bolt so I don't think it warrants the "R" - maybe spicy, I'm sure one of them woulda held a fall though. Also, I thought the finishing pitches were really good too, the splitters are a welcome sight. Jun 29, 2022