Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Brian Smoot, Jonathan Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 4,240 total · 20/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

The 3rd from the west line of bolts. Another thin beginning. This route starts thin and then once you have attained the ledge by hook or crook or mantle in my case, you have to find a way to clip that piton before going any further. The clip is reachy. I am just over 6 foot tall, and by using the 2 small ledges above the main ledge and left of the piton, standing on my tiptoes, and holding the biner to clip at the base of it and in the furthest tips of my fingers and levitating just a bit, I was able to clip it. The thin moves continue past the piton and the blank face, until you get to the more juggy but not neccesarily easier upper face. At "bolt" 3, you can work right of bolt 4 to keep it at the stated 5.10a rating, or veer left for a more difficult 5.10d rating. I only did the right version. Continue up to your anchors.

Protection

7 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. I also backed up the last piton with my trusty .75 camalot.

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