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Routes in Iron Curtain Wall

Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Curtain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motley Cruise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One With the Rock S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of Touch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Perestroika S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pick Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up In a Flash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,771 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 2, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

This is the westmost line on the cliff. It almost deserves 4 stars, and I might change my mind yet. It is a very good route. It start with an easy first bolt (probably the easiest 1st bolt on the wall). Then it gets hard, forcing you to smear and edge very tenuous holds. Hands aren't much help but they are key. Maybe that didn't make sense. A key hand-hold is there to move through the crux; however, the hands don't mark your success through most of this lower section, but good footwork does. After the 3rd bolt, the climbing eases up and hands are good again. The Ruckman's book shows a 5.10a mini-crux at the last bolt, but I never even noticed it. In fact, my belayer mentioned that it seemed like I was on a 5.8 by my speed on the upper section.

Protection

7 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. It shares anchors with Out of Touch if you want to top-rope.

Photos

Fields Tian
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
Fields Tian   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11c
Finally red point this route at third trip to Iron wall. Also my first 11c. It's more a mental toute, you got to trust your foot on slippery hold and thing edge. A lot of fun. Aug 21, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.11a
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.11a
Not the biggest fan of this route, maybe because I accidentally hopped on it. Also because the crux just wasn't that awesome. The Ruckman guide says it well "the sequence is far from obvious". Crux move is 11 but it is really only one move and a bunch of thin stepping up. For those unfamiliar with how routes are rated, it is the single hardest move in a route that will give it a rating. Hence why this route, although much less sustained than Perestroika or Iron Curtain, has a more difficult rating. If your not an 11 leader, I feel there's a good chance you could still find a way through the crux. Top was fun and easy, I would call it 5.8 climbing unless you completely avoid the arete to the right of the top out. Great TR option for somewhat newbies, as I'm sure there's ways to climb around the crux. Lead falls will be pretty awkward at the crux, Commit! Apr 9, 2015
Tim G.
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim G.   Salt Lake City, UT
The ratings on the wall don't make sense to me. I thought this one felt about the same as Iron Curtain (10a) on the same wall and Perestroika (10c) felt easier than both of these. Maybe I was just missing or finding key holds on each climb? Almost all the routes on the right side of the wall feel about the same. Tricky, thin, balancy slab and manteling at the bottom with easier moves above. So don't let the 11c rating scare you. If you climbed Iron Curtain, hop on this one for sure. Apr 25, 2013
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11c
What a fun yet touchy route. This one will test your slabbin skills. The key here is to keep your balance and cool. Have a good belayer on this, because the falls can be awkward through the crux. The upper half is fun with .10ish moves before the top. Sep 12, 2006
Paul S
Fruita, CO
 
Paul S   Fruita, CO
 
Do yourself a favor and rappel off of these anchors, a 60 m rope will work Jul 11, 2005