Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jonathan and Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,625 total · 9/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


59 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is just right of the dirty route right of the steep chossy gully. There is a fixed pin hidden in the horizontal.

Climb up nice thin dishes and edges, moving left near the top to reach the anchors atop Mutation. Very clean, good moves, and well bolted.

Protection

Quickdraws

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
Five quickdraws plus 2 for the top Apr 7, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
The hidden piton can be backed up with a .75 camalot no problem. Jul 2, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.9
Lee Gitlin  
  5.9
Yet another in a list of "friction" face climbs at Parleys. You will need to trust your feet on the unlimited footholds. If things seem desperate, just bump up a few baby steps and an acceptable handhold will appear, as if by magic. Stretching on tiptoes to reach for handholds is a recipe for blowing your feet. As my climbing partner reminded me, "nose over toes," is an appropriate axiom here. Motley Cruise is an interesting, meandering route that rates one star, if only for its nifty hand traverse. A short, enjoyable route. Jul 3, 2004
icsteveoh
salt lake city, UT
 
icsteveoh   salt lake city, UT
 
this climb scared me near the top buldge. Granted I was a beginning climber at the time but I ended up in that chimney and traversing over to the anchors. Not my favorite situation. Aug 14, 2006
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
  5.8+
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
  5.8+
The route feels like you should go over to the right and walk up to the bolts at the top, but then you find two bomber hidden little holds and the anchors are no problem.

Like they said, just smear up a few inches at a time if you're stuck, it'll come. Jun 2, 2007
Tryhard Scoville
Sandy, UT
 
Tryhard Scoville   Sandy, UT
 
I liked this route more than any of the other slabby routes to the left of "Up in a Flash." I think I got too high on the traverse my second time climbing this, but still managed to clip the next bolt and keep going. I'll definately climb this one again. Sep 5, 2009