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Routes in Iron Curtain Wall

Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Curtain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motley Cruise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One With the Rock S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of Touch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Perestroika S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pick Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up In a Flash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 4,952 ft
GPS: 40.71, -111.793 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 16,623 total, 100/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

Description

The Iron Curtain Wall has some nice well bolted sport routes on good quartzite and a quick approach, though the interstate noise dims the appeal. Still, this is a good place to go get a quick pump.

Getting There

Take the 3300 South Exit from I-215, and turn east. Continue through the light at Wasatch Blvd, and then bear left at the first intersection. There is a parking area at the end of the road. From here, walk steeply uphill on a dirt road. Turn left onto a trail towards a distinctive boulder just before a building and cell tower. Head east on a path just before the boulder, and hike down the steep trail to the base of the wall. The Iron Curtain Wall is on the left, and the approach takes about 5-10 minutes from the trailhead.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Iron Curtain Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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One of my most favorite "quick clip" trips. Seriously like going to the gym, pull up to the trailhead (hopefully find a parking spot) and you're rappelling in 15 minutes.


<3 Mar 14, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
Just saw the new bolts yesterday.... while the new bolts may make the iron curtain a better place for beginners to learn to lead, i am bummed that the old trad mentality is gone (at least in my opinion). While I respect Brian's decision to do this, I will miss the old starts. I liked how much it would challenge ones' mental game, I suppose i can just skip the bolts now. Brian, I always thought the ground must have progressively gotten lower over the years. Thanks for the info and all the work you have put into this little spot. Jul 7, 2015
bsmoot  
"Just a heads up to anyone that hasn't been here before, all the first bolts at this crag are WAY off the deck."

OK, the following routes now have a new fist bolt to help protect one from decking.

- Pick-Pocket
- Mutation
- Up in a Flash
- Gotta be tall or else you'll fall
- Iron Curtain
- Out of Touch

26 years ago the ground at the base of these routes was actually 2-3 feet higher. There has been a lot of wearing away and lowering of the soil believe it or not. Even so, the old trad mentality is still prevalent on some of these routes. May 31, 2015
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
Just a heads up to anyone that hasn't been here before, all the first bolts at this crag are WAY off the deck.
I went to Iron Curtain wall yesterday, and was really surprised by just how high off the deck all the first bolts are (not to mention that like 50 % are spinners). My partner and I kinda wracked our brains on the reasoning behind this but really couldn't figure it out.
For Example, the climb that most people rap down, to access the crag, is Up in a Flash. The first bolt for this climb is a spinner, somewhere around 15 ft up, and after the crux. Granted the landing area is flat and free of rocks, but thats cold comfort if you pop off clipping the first bolt and your feet are almost 10 ft off the ground.
I really loved the quality of the rock here. It's awesome, textured, pocketed and really fun to climb, but w/o a stick clip, I thought the area kinda sucked.
FWIW, I think of myself as an average climber, I am not especially brave but also not exceptionally cautious either, and I thought that every one of the 5.10a's and below had unnecessarily high first bolts.

I don't wanna turn anyone off to the area itself, It's REALLY fun, kinda like a cross between the slips and Battalion of the Saints, but if your like me and don't find it fun risking your ankles for the first bolt, bring a stick clip!!! The bolting after that seemed great. May 28, 2014
Steve M Miller
Park City, Ut
Steve M Miller   Park City, Ut
  • *WARNING** top right anchor on UP IN A FLASH is a big spinner went to set up the top rope today (with my own gear in the chains) mainly just to rap down so I didn't have to do the hike but ended up hiking down. I did not have and trust in that anchor. just letting people know.
Jul 30, 2011
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
All the old rusty spinners at this crag need to be replaced... If someone will teach, I will help. Sep 12, 2006
A lot of the bolts on this wall have spinning hangers. Just, beware of fixed protection always, but especially here!! Jul 3, 2004
There is an old lowering rope just west of the main gully that can be used to well... lower down the steep hillside. Jul 2, 2004

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