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Routes in Iron Curtain Wall

Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Curtain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motley Cruise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One With the Rock S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of Touch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Perestroika S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pick Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up In a Flash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian and Vicki Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,617 total · 9/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs a dirty looking face just right of a steep chossy gully. Climb easily up to the high first bolt, and then up through a few more bolts to two rap bolts. Better than it looks, and a bit harder if you avoid the side of the gully on the left.

Do not toprope directly through the rap hangers! Set up a TR through your own biners.

Protection

5 quickdraws

Photos

Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
I believe this needs 6 quickdraws. Including the 2 for the anchors Apr 7, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.9
Lee Gitlin  
  5.9
Bring your best smearing mojo, because a jug haul this is not. My climbing partners and I debated whether the arete was "on." In any case, it makes for a bomber clipping hold on the second bolt. Also, the Parley's area can seem like an EZ-Bake oven in the summer, so climb early to avoid getting scorched, and bring twice as much water as you think you need. Jul 1, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
Ok. I was wrong. I climbed this again, and whereas 4 bolts are on the route, and the 2 hangers for the anchor--makes 6 draws, bring 1 extra for the last bolt on Motley Cruise, since it is reachable and prudent to clip this last bolt. So to make a long story short, bring 7 draws. Jul 2, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
  5.9
Nathan Fisher   St George  
  5.9
One last comment for now: Bolts 1,2, & 3 are spinners. Jul 2, 2004
Spinalflow
Sugarhouse , Utah
  5.9
Spinalflow   Sugarhouse , Utah
  5.9
I would mumble this is more like a 5.9+ if you don't use the arete.
With the use of the arete I would say 5.8 Sep 15, 2007
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Fun tricky slab climbing near the top. The last couple bolts make it a 5.9. Lots of loose stuff on the arete near the gully; belayer watch for rocks. Rusted anchors and chains- one anchor is solid, the other spins. This entire wall could really use some TLC! Mar 31, 2013
Alex Diamond  
 
The 3rd bolt up had a loose nut allowing the hangar to spin. I tightened it with my fingers as much as I could before clipping, but if anyone is there with a wrench it could use a proper tightening. All the metal looked fairly new so I'm unsure how it loosened up so much.
This was a tricky one- I'm sure the arete/choss gully is off, but I could not find feet that I trusted without meandering way off path. Granted it was very hot when I climbed it around sunset yesterday. Climbed it a second time in the dark to clean the gear my partner couldn't get (he's a newer climber and felt uncomfortable cleaning) and actually found it a tad easier.
Not really sure I'd do this one again... Jun 17, 2018

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