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Routes in Iron Curtain Wall

Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Curtain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motley Cruise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One With the Rock S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of Touch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Perestroika S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pick Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up In a Flash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brian and Vicki Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,521 total, 9/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Apr 3, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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This route climbs a dirty looking face just right of a steep chossy gully. Climb easily up to the high first bolt, and then up through a few more bolts to two rap bolts. Better than it looks, and a bit harder if you avoid the side of the gully on the left.

Do not toprope directly through the rap hangers! Set up a TR through your own biners.


5 quickdraws


Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
Fun tricky slab climbing near the top. The last couple bolts make it a 5.9. Lots of loose stuff on the arete near the gully; belayer watch for rocks. Rusted anchors and chains- one anchor is solid, the other spins. This entire wall could really use some TLC! Mar 31, 2013
Sugarhouse , Utah
Spinalflow   Sugarhouse , Utah
I would mumble this is more like a 5.9+ if you don't use the arete.
With the use of the arete I would say 5.8 Sep 15, 2007
Nathan Fisher
Nathan Fisher  
One last comment for now: Bolts 1,2, & 3 are spinners. Jul 2, 2004
Nathan Fisher
Nathan Fisher  
Ok. I was wrong. I climbed this again, and whereas 4 bolts are on the route, and the 2 hangers for the anchor--makes 6 draws, bring 1 extra for the last bolt on Motley Cruise, since it is reachable and prudent to clip this last bolt. So to make a long story short, bring 7 draws. Jul 2, 2004
Lee Gitlin
Lee Gitlin  
Bring your best smearing mojo, because a jug haul this is not. My climbing partners and I debated whether the arete was "on." In any case, it makes for a bomber clipping hold on the second bolt. Also, the Parley's area can seem like an EZ-Bake oven in the summer, so climb early to avoid getting scorched, and bring twice as much water as you think you need. Jul 1, 2004
Nathan Fisher
Nathan Fisher  
I believe this needs 6 quickdraws. Including the 2 for the anchors Apr 7, 2004