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Routes in Iron Curtain Wall

Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Curtain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motley Cruise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One With the Rock S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of Touch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Perestroika S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pick Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up In a Flash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vicki Smoot, Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 1,906 total, 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 28, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This climb tends to be more smearing and less edging than a quartzite climber is used to, due to the --correct me if I'm wrong-- less metamorphosed nature of the quartzite. It is an enjoyable climb, albeit a little short. It's been a few years since I have climbed it, but the pitons looked good.

Protection

This has a 2-bolt anchor. It consists of 2 bolts and 2 pitons.

Photos

Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
  5.8
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
  5.8
This anchor is in terrible condition. I'll try to get to replacing this in May-June, but if someone gets to it before then, great! Apr 12, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
This is my favorite route for the grade at Iron Curtain. Love the pins, especially how much people get sketched out by them and the anchors. How many pitons do you find that don't have a little rust on em? the anchors were solid as well as the pins. Jul 7, 2015
Gub
  5.8
Gub  
  5.8
A bit tough for a 5.8, but still in the 5.8 difficulty range.

The anchors definitely seem to be rusting out, use caution. Jun 15, 2013
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Both anchors at the top are rusted and spinning. Pitons are rusted but seem solid. Two bolts, three pitons- the first erroneous piton is right next to a bolt. My belayer lowered me very slowly and carefully once I saw the super sketchy condition the anchors were in.

We ended up climbing Mutation, the 5.9 to the right, then lowering and traversing left across the gully to grab the gear from this climb since no one wanted to go up it once we realized the condition of the anchors. I wouldn't climb this again without setting up my own anchor. Mar 31, 2013
Matthew R Wolbach
Park City, UT
 
Matthew R Wolbach   Park City, UT
 
Just climbed Pick Pocket today and both top anchors are rusted and they are spinners, all of the others bolts on the rout are good. Aug 24, 2011
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
  5.8
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
  5.8
Pins were fine, last bolt was a spinner, as were both rusted anchor bolts. For some reason I had more trouble on this climb than any other one at the wall. Jun 2, 2007
Both hangers at the anchors are spinning. Jul 2, 2004
Lee Gitlin
  5.8-
Lee Gitlin  
  5.8-
The route starts off with an intimidating run at the first bolt (at least 12 feet off the deck). Be sure to clip the new bolt and not its spun-out, 1/4 inch little brother immediately next to it. I'm not 100% confident in the second piton, a knife blade that looks old enough to come out of Sir Edmund Hillary's rucksack. You may want to back it up with a piece of gear. All in all, a fun (but short) route that requires some interesting movement and traversing. Worth the effort. Jul 1, 2004