Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Vicki Smoot, Brian Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 2,150 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 28, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This climb tends to be more smearing and less edging than a quartzite climber is used to, due to the --correct me if I'm wrong-- less metamorphosed nature of the quartzite. It is an enjoyable climb, albeit a little short. It's been a few years since I have climbed it, but the pitons looked good.


This has a 2-bolt anchor. It consists of 2 bolts and 2 pitons.


Lee Gitlin
Lee Gitlin  
The route starts off with an intimidating run at the first bolt (at least 12 feet off the deck). Be sure to clip the new bolt and not its spun-out, 1/4 inch little brother immediately next to it. I'm not 100% confident in the second piton, a knife blade that looks old enough to come out of Sir Edmund Hillary's rucksack. You may want to back it up with a piece of gear. All in all, a fun (but short) route that requires some interesting movement and traversing. Worth the effort. Jul 1, 2004
Nathan Fisher
St George
Nathan Fisher   St George  
Both hangers at the anchors are spinning. Jul 2, 2004
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
Pins were fine, last bolt was a spinner, as were both rusted anchor bolts. For some reason I had more trouble on this climb than any other one at the wall. Jun 2, 2007
Matthew R Wolbach
Park City, UT
Matthew R Wolbach   Park City, UT
Just climbed Pick Pocket today and both top anchors are rusted and they are spinners, all of the others bolts on the rout are good. Aug 24, 2011
Annie Naylor
Salt Lake City, UT
Annie Naylor   Salt Lake City, UT
Both anchors at the top are rusted and spinning. Pitons are rusted but seem solid. Two bolts, three pitons- the first erroneous piton is right next to a bolt. My belayer lowered me very slowly and carefully once I saw the super sketchy condition the anchors were in.

We ended up climbing Mutation, the 5.9 to the right, then lowering and traversing left across the gully to grab the gear from this climb since no one wanted to go up it once we realized the condition of the anchors. I wouldn't climb this again without setting up my own anchor. Mar 31, 2013
A bit tough for a 5.8, but still in the 5.8 difficulty range.

The anchors definitely seem to be rusting out, use caution. Jun 15, 2013
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
This is my favorite route for the grade at Iron Curtain. Love the pins, especially how much people get sketched out by them and the anchors. How many pitons do you find that don't have a little rust on em? the anchors were solid as well as the pins. Jul 7, 2015
Brennan Crellin
Millcreek, UT
Brennan Crellin   Millcreek, UT  
This anchor is in terrible condition. I'll try to get to replacing this in May-June, but if someone gets to it before then, great! Apr 12, 2016
Shawn Adrian
Shawn Adrian  
Anchor still in poor condition. Pitons and most other bolts solid. Rather an odd zigzagging bolting, and I wouldn't recommend toproping this on the far right side unless you enjoy pendulum swings. Wasn't really a fan, and I would say the rating is closer to a contemporary 5.9. Sep 11, 2018