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Routes in Iron Curtain Wall

Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'll Fall S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Curtain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motley Cruise S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mutation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One With the Rock S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Out of Touch S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Perestroika S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pick Pocket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown West of One with the Rock S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up In a Flash S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Jonathan Smoot, 1989
Page Views: 2,143 total, 13/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 30, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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49 Opinions

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Description

The 4th line of bolts from the right. This touchy climb starts right at a tree, and just off of a left trending weakness. Utilizing sidepulls on this weakness and thin moves towards the bolt will get it clipped. Have a good a spotter (I had 2 and needed both of them) because the 1st clip is tough. The climbing stays tough until you reach the ledge. It then eases up to an almost ridiculous 5.6 level. I was tempted to give it 1 star for this easy section, but the bottom is great and the 5.6 climbing is still fun. The anchors are shared with Iron Curtain.

Protection

8 draws for the route and 2 more for the anchors.

Photos

Tyler Needham
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
Tyler Needham   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c/d
Fantastic route! As with every other route on this wall, I wish the first bolt was a little lower, since the lower sections on most of these routes are the thinnest parts. From the first to the second bolt is a great balancey crux up to the ledge, and then a crazy mantle onto the ledge followed by awkward high feet to reach the next bolt. After that, unfortunately easy climbing.

Favorite route on the wall. Jun 4, 2013
Azollo
  5.10c/d PG13
Azollo  
  5.10c/d PG13
Fun cruxes, but I need to do it again for the red point :(

The first crux is between the first bolt and the ledge. The second is coming off the ledge to the 4th bolt. After that it is cake (but still really fun).

I hear people saying 5.10a, but it felt at least 5.10d to me. It could be because of my height (5' 6"). I took a lot of falls going for the second bolt but eventually figured it out. The second crux I got with one fall, but it was a hard move and long reach for sure.

I'm giving it a 5.10c/d, because that is what I felt. I took a lot of falls on the first crux. I came close to decking on a couple, but I never did (I had a good belay). I'd say it's PG-13, because you can easily take a 15' fall to the deck if your belayer isn't doing a good job. Jun 14, 2011
Alec LaLonde
  5.10b
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10b
Really fun climb on this wall -- my favorite of the bunch. First couple of clips are easier with a long wingspan, or good balance: I could reach it with no hands. Fun facey climbing with some bail-out ledges with great balancey mantles -- Classic! Sep 23, 2007
Ryan Peterson
North Salt Lake, Utah
Ryan Peterson   North Salt Lake, Utah
Most bolts up higher are spinners. Bring a crash pad for the first two bolts, getting that second bolt was the hardest part I thought. Jun 2, 2007
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c PG13
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c PG13
I agree, the rap biner is very unnecessary. There is no need to alter this route, except MAYBE to replace the spinners.
This is one of my favorites routes at the crag. A classic for sure. I'm giving it a PG-13--because there are a couple spots before the third bolt, that if you fall you could get hurt. Have a good belay on this one. Sep 12, 2006
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.10c
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.10c
Whoever put a quicklink on the 1st bolt should have refrained from doing so, or put it on the 2nd bolt where it's useful! I can reach the 1st bolt with my elbow, I'm 4" away from the second regardless of where my feet are. Go figure...
3 cruxes on this route: get to the ledge, mantel the ledge (no hands), clip the 3rd bolt (long move, small crimps, no feet). Bring strong tendons. Sep 11, 2006
Ryan Brough
Arvada, Colorado
  5.10c
Ryan Brough   Arvada, Colorado
  5.10c
I felt like the climbing to the first bolt was 5.8; however, getting the second clip is sketchy. The climbing is consistently difficult from the first bolt until the fourth bolt, the crux (for me) was around the third bolt. I think that if I were a foot taller, this route would have been 5.9. As with a lot of other routes on this wall, most of the bolts are spinners. This route was a fun challenge, and I hope to redpoint it next time. Jul 4, 2006