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Routes in Shadow Rock

1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desperado S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Sanctum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lycra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Cirone, Ed Sampson
Page Views: 1,066 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Calf work out! The crux comes before the first clip, and many 5.9 climbers have slid off. Well worth it.

Protection

3 bolts and two anchor bolts that are shared with Desperado.

Photos

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Sean P. Sullivan
Clovis, Ca
Sean P. Sullivan   Clovis, Ca
Took a fall before bolt one. Actually trying to downclimb a move and try different beta for a good stance to clip. Hit the small ledge and was caught by my belayer on the big ledge. Came out ok but very shaken. Still haven't come back to finish the job. Those old school guys that put these routes up are bad ass mofos. Respect. May 12, 2016
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
^^^ (Coming from a guy that led Inner Sanctum) Dec 12, 2014
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
Most serious lead on the wall. So intense up to bolt uno Nov 23, 2014
Jim Reynolds
  5.9 R
Jim Reynolds  
  5.9 R
I dont see how Thin Man gets 5.9 R and this doesnt. I mean, come on, that first clip is terrifying. I led it today for the first time and honestly believed I was going to break my ankle.

PS This is THIN 5.9, not that juggy secure 5.9 that feels all nice and cozy. Jan 29, 2012
Tyler Alves
Sacramento, CA
  5.9+ R
Tyler Alves   Sacramento, CA
  5.9+ R
Awesome route. If you are climbing Desperado or Battle of the Bulge anyway, make sure to lead/ TR Diamond before you head out. You won't regret it.
Harder than similarly rated shadow wall routes, be careful. Feb 11, 2011
Floyd Hayes
5.10b
Floyd Hayes  
5.10b
Even on a top rope it seemed much harder than any slab 5.9 in Yosemite (e.g., Marginal). Mar 22, 2010
Jon Hanlon
SLO
  5.9+
Jon Hanlon   SLO
  5.9+
This is a great friction climb on solid rock. The crux is getting high enough to clip the first bolt. A fall from here results in an awkward slide/fall to an ankle busting ledge. It is definately solid 5.9 here...dont fall. It IS possible to clip the first bolt on Battle of the Bulge (use a long runner). This gives the belayer enough time to yard in rope and jump off the ledge in time to stop a falling leader from hitting the ledge. (trust me...it works!) Feb 11, 2004