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Routes in Shadow Rock
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1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desperado S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Inner Sanctum T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Lycra S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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No Offense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Sense of Balance S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Shadow Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Simple Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Aid Ladder - Unknown; FA possibly Ed Sampson |
| Page Views: | 9,972 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Nosti on Jan 21, 2004 · Updates |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This route has a mixture of old bolting ethics and those from Owen's River Gorge. This means the first bolt is about 20 ft off the deck but the ones following are almost on top of each other. That said, it is still a classic, good enough to be placed on Hans Flourine's top six routes below 5.12! It starts on the left side of the block in the middle of the wall and goes up until you are just below and left of the first bolt. Traverse right, clip the bolt, and then follow the bolt line up to the anchors. Great for those days when Cracked Wall is packed and you need some shade.
Protection
Five bolts and a two eye-bolt anchor at the top make this a straight-forward lead for those just getting into sport climbing. (It usually is everyone's first lead anyway). NOTE: This is an old aid line that wasn't rebolted to be a free climb. Rather, certain bolts were just chopped and certain bolts were left (probably to avoid having to go through the arduous task of hand-bolting the route).
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