Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Pete Gulyash, Lee Millon
Page Views: 1,497 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

I love slab. I love this route. One really key foot is just below the first bolt, I found it was easier to do a single biner rather than a draw in order to hit it. Once you pull the bulge, go up Despreado. You can go over left to lower it a few letter grades.

Protection

TR from the anchors for Diamond (note multiple anchors . . .) or use the 3 bolt lead.

Photos

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Jon Hanlon
SLO
  5.10c
Jon Hanlon   SLO
  5.10c
.10C variation left of the Bulge...Fantastic thin friction with buttery, stretchy moves....makes the 5.8-5.9 face climbing above the Bulge seem like 5.2. Feb 11, 2004
Jim Reynolds
  5.11b
Jim Reynolds  
  5.11b
Some seriously finger hurting thin smearing. Trust that left foot! Apr 11, 2011
Josterling
5.11a
Josterling  
5.11a
Jim, Cant agree more that bulge makes your fingers scream. Fun Route! Sep 9, 2012
I did the single biner on the first bolt as Kristin suggests and it worked well. I pre-hung a (really) long sling off the second bolt of diamond to avoid a potential grounder for the leader (me). Probably 5.8 slab terrain in the ground fall zone getting to that second bolt of diamond. Not sure if I got into the "10c variation left of the bulge" or not. Either way this is primo shadow wall stuff here. Fingers didn't hurt until the next day. Feb 13, 2017