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Routes in Shadow Rock

1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desperado S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Sanctum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lycra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Pete Gulyash, Lee Millon
Page Views: 1,021 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

I love slab. I love this route. One really key foot is just below the first bolt, I found it was easier to do a single biner rather than a draw in order to hit it. Once you pull the bulge, go up Despreado. You can go over left to lower it a few letter grades.

Protection

TR from the anchors for Diamond (note multiple anchors . . .) or use the 3 bolt lead.

Photos

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I did the single biner on the first bolt as Kristin suggests and it worked well. I pre-hung a (really) long sling off the second bolt of diamond to avoid a potential grounder for the leader (me). Probably 5.8 slab terrain in the ground fall zone getting to that second bolt of diamond. Not sure if I got into the "10c variation left of the bulge" or not. Either way this is primo shadow wall stuff here. Fingers didn't hurt until the next day. Feb 13, 2017
Josterling
5.11a
Josterling  
5.11a
Jim, Cant agree more that bulge makes your fingers scream. Fun Route! Sep 9, 2012
Jim Reynolds
  5.11b
Jim Reynolds  
  5.11b
Some seriously finger hurting thin smearing. Trust that left foot! Apr 11, 2011
Jon Hanlon
SLO
  5.10c
Jon Hanlon   SLO
  5.10c
.10C variation left of the Bulge...Fantastic thin friction with buttery, stretchy moves....makes the 5.8-5.9 face climbing above the Bulge seem like 5.2. Feb 11, 2004