Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shadow Rock

1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desperado S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Sanctum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lycra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: John Knight & John Dalbey
Page Views: 1,551 total, 9/month
Shared By: John Knight on Oct 31, 2003
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fat Man (5.8/5.9) sits near his antithesis, Thin Man (5.9 really run out). Scramble to the top of the 4th Class Gully left of Thin Man and start off the small block. You'll clip six, well placed bolts on 80'(+/-)of clean, solid rock. The climb can be done as a single pitch or you can continue on up to Eat Mo' Possum (5.6). From the same anchor you can easily top rope Three to Get Ready (5.9). Other options include a move to the right to top rope Thin Man (5.9R) or a move to the left to top rope Swallow (5.7) or First Offense. Fat Man makes a great climb for a new leader. Most of the moves are 5.7 with a couple of 5.8s (and maybe a well protected 5.9) thrown in to make it fun. Great views for both the belayer and climber are a plus! Bring a 200'/60 meter rope if you want to rap this route.

Protection

Six or seven draws (you can clip the last 3 to Get Ready Bolt if you want). Bring a couple small cams or nuts if you'd like to supplement. Bring a couple extra draws to set up the the anchor. Please don't top rope directly off the courtesy clips.
"I think most people will like the minor changes. A few people probably won't even notice (or care)."


not this again... Jun 15, 2011
John Knight  
 
Fat Man went on a diet. He now has 6 bolts instead of 7. The bottom 2 bolts have been "consolidated" into a single bolt. Also, note that a couple of the bolt locations have been moved to the right (bolts #2 & #3 are right of where they used to be). This helps avoid the previous confusion/encroachment with 3 to Get Ready (to the left). After you clip bolt #1 look up and a bit right for bolt #2. Then head between the two dirt patches on your way to the crux. The line is a lot straighter than it used to be.

I think most people will like the minor changes. A few people probably won't even notice (or care).

Also, over time, several small holds appear to have been broken off at the crux. This has now settled, but it's definitely harder than when I first established the route in 2004. I think the crux is more like 5.9 now (instead of 5.8).

Let me know what you think of the minor revisions to the bolt locations and whether the crux is 5.8 or 5.9.

John Jun 3, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.8
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8
I clipped into 8 bolts both times when I led it, in November 2008 and May 2009. Mar 22, 2010
John Knight  
 
Definitely 7 bolts. When you drill that many bolts (on rappel) it's hard to remember. You can even move left after bolt 7 & clip the top bolt on 3 to Get Ready for 8 bolts total! Anyway, bring lots of draws.

Several people I talked to thought the crux was harder than 5.8. I think a key hold may have broken off. Any thoughts on the grade?

Still a fun climb. I enjoy it every time I climb it.

john Mar 1, 2009
E Haro  
Just to clear things up.The start to Fat Man is also Easy Street. However Fat Man continues up to the shared anchors for 3 to Get Ready and Fat Man. Easy Street traverses left on the low angle slab to the anchors for 1st offense May 23, 2005
I agree, silly first bolt, but a fun climb Nov 7, 2004
Kristin McNamara
SLO, CA
  5.8-
Kristin McNamara   SLO, CA
  5.8-
This is a one-move wonder, and I wonder why that first bolt exists. Way too close to the ground and the second bolt. It's fairly fun, but requires some route finding and avoiding huge mud patches. It's a nice line. Good first 5.8 lead. Nov 7, 2004
This climb, "Fat Man," was established on rappel with a power drill, a significant and controversial departure from the traditional style (ground-up, hand-drilled ascents) at Bishop's Peak. This practice should be strongly discouraged. There's no reason this climb couldn't have been done in a style consistent with local history and traditions. Feb 16, 2004
Jad Josey
  5.8
Jad Josey  
  5.8
This climb is a welcome addition to the Shadow Wall. After a fun start, the climbing becomes a bit more interesting around the fifth bolt. This route will get better and better as more people climb it -- as of right now it's a bit caked with lichen. Also, there are seven bolts on this climb, not six. Feb 16, 2004