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Routes in Shadow Rock

1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desperado S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Sanctum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lycra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,180 total, 7/month
Shared By: John Knight on Oct 2, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This 5.7 route has 1 "hard" move with the rest of the route going at 5.5/5.6. This would be a great 1st lead for a 5.7 climber. The lower portion takes small nuts & cams while resting on good stances. There are two holes in the rock that can be threaded with a long draw before stepping up to clip a bolt. At the bolt, go straight up or move right slightly for an easier time. Once you're above the bolt fiddle in some small gear or run it out on easy ground to the anchors. The rock is clean & solid on the 1st pitch.

From the Swallow belay, you can go up Eat Mo' Possum (5.6R), top rope THC (5.10a)or top rope 1st Offense (5.10a). If you go all the way to the summit and rap back, be extremely careful about knocking rocks off on your fellow climbers. The fall line is directly over the very popular Shadow. I dropped my water bottle while rapping & found it at the base of Shadow.

If you want to get in some more top roping, from the Swallow belay, you can easily swing right & hit the anchors shared by Fat Man (5.8) and 3 to Get Ready. Move a bit further right & you can top rope Thin Man (5.9R). Don't try & rap to the base of Thin Man. You won't make it! Thin Man must be top roped from the top.



Protection

Small to medium nuts & cams + 1 draw.

Photos

Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
Unaesthetic, but at least it is cleaner and better protected than several climbs to the right. Mar 22, 2010
I saw two unknown climbers onsight flashing everything up at the Cuesta Crags yesterday... who were those guys? One had poison oak head to toe and was suffering from wasp stings and the other guy was old and half naked. An amazing sight to behold. Sep 4, 2005