Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Menzo Baird, Ed Keefe
Page Views: 732 total · 4/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Let Menzo describe it.

Protection

3 bolts plus small to 1" pro when needed (aliens=good). Two bolt anchor will have you rapping down the east face. Make sure you have a 60 M rope.

[ed. note: 12/03 - 3, ¼” bolts w/Leeper Hangers removed. 2, 3/8” bolts and 1, ½” bolt placed at crux.]

Photos

Jon Hanlon
SLO
  5.9 R
Jon Hanlon   SLO
  5.9 R
Since Menzo hasn't described it, I will try..

This is a three bolt route on the left side of Shadow Rock, starting on the headwall approximately 30 feet downhill from the oak tree (the start of First Offense). The first bolt is at the top of the headwall. The second bolt is way up and left. Do not confuse the 3rd bolt on Fat Man as being the second bolt on Three to Get Ready. This Fat Man bolt interrupts the Three to Get Ready line.

Contrary to the route description, there are very few opportunities for pro on the climb, and virtually none where needed. The crux comes between bolts 2 and 3, bolt 2 being 15 feet below. It is an additional 15 feet to bolt 3. You could worry a black alien behind a loose flake, but I don't think it would hold a fall.

I would give this one a big fat capital "R". Great climbing, not a sport climb. Though I have always wanted to, I will probably never lead it. Aug 7, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I wholeheartedly concur. 3 bolts and a couple of marginal pieces for an 80-ft route is no sport climb! Aug 7, 2006