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Routes in Shadow Rock

1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desperado S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Sanctum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lycra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Colin Berry & friend, March 1982
Page Views: 1,091 total, 7/month
Shared By: Theron Moses on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Friction your way up to the first bolt. Stay left of the bolt and go up. It's pretty thin for a couple of moves above the first bolt. Shallow monos & pasty feet. Move up into the hole and go straight up from there. It will hit you with a second cruxy section around the third bolt.

Protection

Three bolts and a large cam for the hole inbetween the 1st and 2nd bolt. Use either of Shadows two bolt anchors. The Right side set is better aligned with the climb.

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Josterling
5.10b
Josterling  
5.10b
Did this route today. Thanks Ken for the good vision and bolting this. Amazing line.
p.s. this line felt more like 10b/c to me am i only one who feels this way?? Sep 14, 2012
fa Ken Klis, Nate Sears

hand drilled on-sight old school by me, forgot my hammer used a rock

named in regards to the Lycra pants fashion of the day

this route joined I Love A Mystery (Mike Cirone 1977) for the top half, a route that used Shadow bolts but went right after a runout start Mar 8, 2012
Kurt Ross
Boulder, colorado
Kurt Ross   Boulder, colorado
Jim Reynolds  
 
My favorite route on Shadow Wall. Superb friction climb. I was proud to onsight it Apr 11, 2011
Slater
 
Slater  
 
This route deserves more attention then it gets. One of the best. Much more sequential than most other routes. Reminds me of the bottom section of Lama. Excellent. Jul 19, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Vincent -- good lead! The way I like to do it is to traverse up and left after the third bolt, finishing as for Shadow. Done this way (and using the #3 Camalot between bolts 1 and 2), it's pretty well-protected (at least by Bishop Peak standards!). Sep 12, 2005
vincent lopez
  5.10b
vincent lopez  
  5.10b
hard crux but well protected. (1st bolt) . the optional cam placement only protects around 5.6 /5.7 moves but you could deck if you blow it getting up to the 2nd bolt . after the 3rd bolt it is 5.9+ but nowhere near as hard as the start . halfway between the 3rd bolt and the chains there is a bolt just left of the route that can be clipped to minimize the runout to the chains . very nice route.... Sep 11, 2005