Type: Sport, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Slater, Jeff Gater 7-94 on lead
Page Views: 1,969 total · 11/month
Shared By: John Knight on May 23, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

OK, so you climbed Desperado and were hoping to top rope Diamond or Shadow, but there were already parties coming up both of these routes. What do you do? Make Desperado into a "multi-pitch" climb and continue up to the Fields of Fire/Inner Sanctum anchors. You should plan to lead this all the way from the ground in one stretch rather than in 2 pitches. This will make it safer if you fall after the 1st Desperado anchors and be more comfortable for the belayer. Once you hit the Desperado anchors either go straight up and clip 2 bolts or move left and clip into the bolts just above the Shadow anchors then head up. Although there are only 2 bolts on this climb the difficulty eases up to about 5.4 once you get 20 or 30 feet above the Shadow or Desperado anchors.

The anchors are a bit difficult to find. From Desperado, work your way up and left (keeping the munge on your right) and the anchors will suddenly appear! The anchors are pretty much directly above the Shadow Anchors. You won't see them until you're almost on them.

If you want to climb Inner Sanctum (but don't want to lead it), you can lower your partner to the ground & belay from the top in one long 180' pitch. Or bring two ropes and an extra friend to help pull the rope.

The 2nd Pitch is a bit licheny but offers tremendous views and some nice climbing. The more you climb it, the better it gets for all of us!

Protection

Two bolts lead to a two bolt anchor if you climb past Desperado or Diamond.

[ed. note: 1/04 - 1 rusted anchor bolt removed and replaced with 1, ½” Rawl w/SS Double Ring. Existing smash links moved over to existing good bolt for rappelling. 1 rusty lead bolt replaced with a ½” SS Rawl.]

Photos