Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Shadow Rock

1st Offense T,S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Battle of the Bulge S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desperado S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diamond S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Eat Mo' Possum T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Fat Man S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fields of Fire S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love a Mystery TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Inner Sanctum T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Lycra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Man S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Powerplay T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pressure Drop S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Shadow S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shadow Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Swallow T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
THC S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thin Man S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Three To Get Ready S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Slater, Jeff Gater 7-94 on lead
Page Views: 1,572 total · 9/month
Shared By: John Knight on May 23, 2004
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

OK, so you climbed Desperado and were hoping to top rope Diamond or Shadow, but there were already parties coming up both of these routes. What do you do? Make Desperado into a "multi-pitch" climb and continue up to the Fields of Fire/Inner Sanctum anchors. You should plan to lead this all the way from the ground in one stretch rather than in 2 pitches. This will make it safer if you fall after the 1st Desperado anchors and be more comfortable for the belayer. Once you hit the Desperado anchors either go straight up and clip 2 bolts or move left and clip into the bolts just above the Shadow anchors then head up. Although there are only 2 bolts on this climb the difficulty eases up to about 5.4 once you get 20 or 30 feet above the Shadow or Desperado anchors.

The anchors are a bit difficult to find. From Desperado, work your way up and left (keeping the munge on your right) and the anchors will suddenly appear! The anchors are pretty much directly above the Shadow Anchors. You won't see them until you're almost on them.

If you want to climb Inner Sanctum (but don't want to lead it), you can lower your partner to the ground & belay from the top in one long 180' pitch. Or bring two ropes and an extra friend to help pull the rope.

The 2nd Pitch is a bit licheny but offers tremendous views and some nice climbing. The more you climb it, the better it gets for all of us!

Protection

Two bolts lead to a two bolt anchor if you climb past Desperado or Diamond.

[ed. note: 1/04 - 1 rusted anchor bolt removed and replaced with 1, ½” Rawl w/SS Double Ring. Existing smash links moved over to existing good bolt for rappelling. 1 rusty lead bolt replaced with a ½” SS Rawl.]

Photos

Frodeman  
 
4-5 days after rain and while desperado was almost dry, the entire route past the first anchors was soaking wet, making the run out way scary. Also, a pretty big rock dislodged and crashed into/exploded somewhere on the top of shadow but we rapped down to shadow anchors and it doesn't look like it broke anything. Seems like this route needs a ton of time to dry. Jan 1, 2015
Like John said. If you're going to do this route, do it in one full pitch. The crux of both the link-up is directly above the first anchors, meaning a factor 2 fall potential for those belaying from those anchors. (Factor 2 falls are one of the worst things aside from decking because the catch is very static) Feb 2, 2012
Floyd Hayes
  5.8 PG13
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8 PG13
As I recall the Slater guide showed two lines from the Desperado anchor--a second pitch of Diamond and also Fields of Fire--but there seems to be only one natural line. Mar 22, 2010
Kristin McNamara   SLO, CA
Hmm, guess when I did it four years ago, it was a munge pile. I'll have to go back and fix that. : ) May 2, 2004
John Knight
  5.8
John Knight  
  5.8
Jeff R. & I climbed Fields of Fire (5.8) yesterday. This route makes for a great multi-pitch (well 2 pictches anyway) climb after doing Desperado of Shadow. However, the best way to climb it is to do it in one long pitch from the ground, since the hardest moves are right off the anchors. You'll need a 60 meter rope. Lichen isn't bad & it's not mungy! I think that's just Kristen starting rumors. The 5.8 grade is pretty accurate, but it's really one 5.8 move off the anchor & the rest goes at 5.6 or 5.7. A great way to get up high quickly and enjoy some outstanding views. You can also cross over to Inner Sanctum anchors if you want to top rope (from the top!) that climb. Or rap back to Fat Man, Thin Man, or Shadow. Ethan, Jake & I replaced a lead bolt & one anchor bolt on Field of Fire, so they are solid.

One final word of caution! I had this crazy idea that I could cross over to Eat Mo' Possum (you can). That's the extension above Swallow or Fat Man. Take my word for it, it's a bad idea! Although it's possible, you cross some seriously loose rock that would turn into missles on anyone near the base of Shadow. Rap back to Shadow & do some more climbing rather than wallowing through munge.

john May 2, 2004
John Knight
  5.8
John Knight  
  5.8
Lichen negotiation! It's well worth it. This is a great extension of Shadow or Desperado. Bring a BBQ brush and make it easier on the rest of us. Feb 11, 2004
I disagree - Fields of Fire is really pretty good! Moderate lichen negotiation makes it interesting and the exposure and nearby succulents and moss make it quite scenic. The antique second bolt has been replaced, too. A great route if linked in one long pitch with Desperado or Shadow - see my other comments regarding this. Feb 9, 2004

More About Fields of Fire

Printer-Friendly Guide