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Routes in Middle Tier

Beach Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In the Buckets TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jungle Book T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two in One S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,763 total · 9/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details


Climb on the portion of the middle tier that you first encounter hiking down to lower tier from the road.

Fun layback in the bottom section, good fist jams on the top section.


Gear to 4 inches.

Mostly just a TR - you can access the anchors by scrambling up and around the gully. The actual bolts are on an upper hump with in cut steps at the far south side of the middle tier formation.

To set a top anchor, bring slings up to 10 feet.


- No Photos -
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
OK climb- but hard at it's grade. It's also a pain in the butt for only 35' of rock in my opinion. TR off of the small tree and off of some GREAT stoppers in the grooves to the left that were 'cut' by other ropes + a cam of two ~.4-.6" inches there. Lead with 1 set of cams from 1" to 4".

Not bad, but not good. I guess if the sun is right with respect to it, or the rest of the routes are taken, it's worthy, but not a destination or a "tick list" climb.

Sure was a lot of work for "5.6"... I'd say it was awkward and physically demanding. the holds are slopey and sandy. I'll go as far as to call it 5.8. Sep 22, 2003
Ami Bhatt
Ami Bhatt  
This is one of the sandiest and most fragile routes I've been on at Diablo. My guess is that the 5.6 rating was given before significant erosion took place. It felt more like a strengthy 5.8 (especially for those who lack long legs allowing stemming across the bottom cave).

I found the best thing about the route to be the mind trip aspect of holds falling apart beneath your shoes. Dec 5, 2004
Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
And there's a perfect placement for my #11 hex ;-) Dec 5, 2008
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
This route is called the "Beach Crack".

Get it? Cuz of all the sand!

It's solid 5.7. Feb 4, 2013
Justin Johnsen
Sacramento, CA
Justin Johnsen   Sacramento, CA  
I've combined Andrew Gillies' contribution into Aron's old page, and updated the route name. Jun 27, 2014

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