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Routes in Middle Tier

Beach Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In the Buckets TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jungle Book T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two in One S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 746 total, 12/month
Shared By: pnwdevin on Dec 9, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

[From Caliza]: "Directly to the right of In The Buckets. Only sport route, thus far, on the Middle Tier. Starts off with really easy climbing that leads to a bouldery V2 crux mantle to half-pad micro crimps at the second bolt."

A sequence of powerful moves over huge sandy slopers and pinches. Crux is near the top, overcoming a seemingly featureless section of rock.

Location

20 yards to the right of in the buckets when looking down the hill. The only currently bolted sport route on the middle tier.

Protection

4 (or 5?) bolts to 2 bolt anchors. Bolted by Miles Holland, Devin Downes, and Rances Rodriguez

Photos

Paul Ott
oakland, CA
Paul Ott   oakland, CA
aint no sport route. not a single bolt unless you only clip the top. Jul 19, 2015
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
Confusing name, I think this is the set of anchors in between "2 for 1" and "In the Buckets"

Not sure if crucial holds broke but the crux moves of this route make it a good bit harder than "In the Buckets" IMO - finally worked out the beta after a bunch of tries and sent, but man it's unlikely/desperate, worth doing though. Sep 2, 2014
pnwdevin  
 
yeah. Always willing to donate time and fixed gear to boy scout rocks. Without someone maintaining it, someone is bound to get hurt. Feb 19, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Crocodile Dundee's original name is "Two in One". Because it has an easy start and a hard topout. So it feels like two routes in one.

The one to it's right that had the manky anchors is called "Two for One" because if you climb it on the left it's .10a, if you climb on the right it's .11a/b, hence you get two routes for one.

It needs chains too, in fact I'd like to talk with you and the dude who bolted the other routes about that. That place needs a lot of maintenance and I have all the hardware to do it. I just could use some help. I'll email you about it sometime soon. Feb 18, 2013
pnwdevin  
 
yeah. I was with the guy who bolted it and helped him fix it up. We didn't know the name, just thought it was unnamed, not trying to take credit for it. If you know the name, just tell me and I can change it. I will install quicklinks on the pot leaf route, want to keep that upper face from shitty top rope damage. It is still reasonably preserved unlike other parts of the crag, especially the upper tier. I should have those up over the summer as I will be in Washington till late may. I will consider adding chains to two in one as well. Got to keep the anchors nice if you don't want people dragging ropes over the sandstone. Feb 18, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
Oh, then that's two in one which now has bolts. No need to go calling it something else just because someone bolted a TR problem that has seen probably 10'000 ascents.

Two For One (the manky TR problem you mentioned) has had it's anchors replaced with nice glueins and could use some chain to keep people from TRing through the bolts and to reduce rope scars too.

I don't think that pot leaf cave route needs chains. The anchors are on a vertical wall, maybe just a couple of quick links so you can rap. On second thought, you're right. You'd need 4 quicklinks to orientate the rings in the right direction for rappel. Might as well add some chain while you're at it. Feb 18, 2013
pnwdevin  
 
Its the one that is directly to the climbers left of the real manky top rope problem that has the bolts falling out on the middle tier. I also bought 2 fixe fixed chain quickdraws for the old TR you mentioned that is now bolted to the right of beach crack. I am in Washington right now, but when I get home I am going to fix them up there to make that route rappellable. Feb 17, 2013
Salamanizer suchoski
Vacaville Ca.
Salamanizer suchoski   Vacaville Ca.  
20 yards to the right??? Is this the old TR "Two in One" (.11a-ish) like 10 ft to the right or the old not so popular TR to the right of Beach Crack (Pot Leaf Cave)? Both are now bolted.

Either way, glad to see the anchor bolts are now below the rope grooves on top. Feb 4, 2013