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Routes in Middle Tier

Beach Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In the Buckets TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jungle Book T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two in One S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,542 total · 8/month
Shared By: Katie Purtill on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

Argh!!! Fun but frustrating and slopeeeeey... Just right of "Jungle Book," up the obvious line of pockets. Very tricky, body-position-dependent moves on unnervingly sandy rock. When all else fails, jump.

Protection

Three bolts on top; long slings for toproping. Uses the same anchor as "Jungle Book." Watch for rope drag.

Photos

Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
  5.11d
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
  5.11d
Fantastic route - flashed it with good beta on the lower section, cool body position and some desperate/unlikely moves. Felt solid 5.11d/.12a for me, but I'm short. Sep 2, 2014
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
 
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
 
I don't agree that it's beta intensive at all. Just powerful, balanced movement. There are no bolts, so just TR. Definitely worth it after Jungle Book! One crucial hold is gonna break pretty soon. Rating is solid at 11c/d. Apr 29, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This and Jungle Book (5.10D) make the mid-tier well worth while, especially when everybody is waiting for the lower tier climbs. As mentioned, the moves are definitely beta intensive, but they also require some grip. The fun part my friend and I noticed is that it tends to make the climber do the oddest moves attempting to reach the next hold before realizing there's an easier, more conventional way to do it. That said, we both ended up dynoing to pass two different cruxes. Fun route! Oct 24, 2005
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
This route is about the most beta-intensive climb i've ever seen. I've watched a lot of people go up this, and once someone figures out what to do, the climb quickly becomes quite do-able. Jun 25, 2002
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Looks like this climb used to be a lot easier due to the foot holds sloping out over years of use. Still a fun route, it's easier than you think. Jun 25, 2002