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Routes in Middle Tier

Beach Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In the Buckets TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Jungle Book T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pot Leaf Cave - Left Arete TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Two for One (left variation) S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two for One (right variation) S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two in One S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,781 total, 9/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 23, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock Details

Description

This route is climbed from the right set of top anchor coldshuts on the middle tier. It is located about 10 - 15' left of the distinct crack (5.7).

To start this climb, work your way up into the main bowl, and the work up and left to the pockety surface to finish the climb. The crux is getting yourself from the main bowl to the left side.

Interesting balancy motions, and an excellent warmup.

Protection

Set up a top rope from the bolts above the route. A longer sling (5'+) will be helpful, and a REALLY long sling (50'+) will be helpful if you want to back up the bolts.

Photos

Steve R.
Oakland, CA
Steve R.   Oakland, CA
Only because this route is so short did it not bother me terribly that one of these bolts is spinning in its sleeve. I didn't see a good way to back it up, must be something but far away. Dec 5, 2008